How to sew thin knitwear (using the example of a women's golf turtleneck)? Master class on sewing a men's turtleneck. Pattern of a women's turtleneck.

A turtleneck is a comfortable and practical type of clothing. It beautifully fits the figure and protects the neck and chest from the winds. It happens with long and short sleeve, casual, business, club, from elegant and practical material. The only condition is that it must stretch, otherwise it will no longer be a turtleneck, but a sweatshirt or blouse, but without buttons.

If you have already mastered the skill of sewing knitwear, then sewing a turtleneck with your own hands will not be very difficult.

Turtleneck pattern

In order to draw a pattern, you will need measurements:

Bust
Waist circumference
Shoulder length
Neck circumference
Back length to waist (from the 7th vertebra to the waist line)
Hip circumference
Wrist circumference
Sleeve length
Product length

The height of the stand is arbitrary.

The knit turtleneck pattern below is suitable for sizes 48-50. (Or build to your own standards). If a smaller size is needed, you need to reduce the armhole line by 0.5 cm, and the side line and sleeve by 1 cm on each side.

You will need a rectangle for the neck separately. It is 0.5-2 cm less than the length of the neck. This must be done so that the neck is well covered. The width is double, since the part will be folded in half.

Allowances - they are not necessary if the fabric stretches well.

Material selection

The fabric for a turtleneck needs stretch. It could be:

any types of knitted cotton: cashcorse, ribana, footer, cooler with lycra, interlock;
jersey jersey: plain, print, knitted;
oil, micro-oil, crystal;
guipure stretch

Having a base, you can model it - make an insert of guipure in the neckline area, trimmed barrels made of contrasting fabric, combined sleeves and everything that your imagination suggests.

Sewing the product

Lay out the pattern so that the fabric stretches in width. Then you can achieve a good fit of the product.

Cut without allowances except for the gap for hems of sleeves and hem. If in doubt, make it, cut it out, baste the product and try it on. Transfer all the shortcomings to the drawing, correcting it.

Sew shoulder seams.
Sew the sleeves to the armhole, aligning the top point of the collar with the seam on the shoulder.
Align the line of the bottom of the front and back and use one seam to sew the side seams from the bottom of the product to the bottom of the sleeve.

It is better to sew with a zigzag overlock stitch or directly on an overlocker. If you use a straight seam, it may burst under tension.

Fold the bottom of the sleeves and the product and hem it on the cover stitch. Or a three-step zigzag if you don’t have the necessary equipment.
The length of the collar must be folded inside out. Pin along the neck line, stretching it slightly. Sew on an overlocker or machine using an overlock stitch.

The turtleneck is ready. Can be worn.

The resulting base is universal. It also produces a pattern for a turtleneck dress. It is enough to simply increase the length and/or widen it a little in the hip area. And if you attach the panties pattern, you get a combodress.

Hello, today you and I will build a turtleneck from low-stretch knitwear. Why do I focus on the stretchability of the material? Because each option has its own design features, they are minor, but they exist.

What does low-stretch knitwear mean? This means that it stretches by 1-1.5 cm. If you want a tight-fitting turtleneck, then this nuance needs to be taken into account.

Constructing a turtleneck pattern from knitwear

The construction of the pattern that I offer you will suit any female figure, but first let's look at the amount of fabric.

How much fabric do you need for a turtleneck?

Look, the usual width is 140 cm, folded - 70 cm. Before buying fabric, take one of two measurements, either chest girth (Og) or hip girth (Ob), i.e., take off the girth that is larger for you total: chest or thighs. You divide it in half, measure the circumference of your arm (Op) and add them up. Based on this amount, we determine the required amount of fabric.

The amount is less than the knitwear when folded, i.e., less than 70 cm - we take the material one length. It is determined by measuring the length of the sleeve or the product itself (take the larger one). Be sure to add 4 cm to the length for the shoulder seams and hem, plus 20-30 cm for the collar.
The amount is more than 70 cm - in this case, you need to take two lengths of the product plus 4 cm. There is no need to add additional centimeters to the collar; it will be cut out from the remnants of knitwear.
The amount is 70 cm - in this case you must make the decision yourself. If you choose the first option, you will not have any fabric left for even small allowances. When sewing, the turtleneck will turn out tighter than you wanted. If you choose the second option, you will be left with a lot of extra material.

Knitwear stretch coefficient

What is it and why is this coefficient needed? It is necessary in order to determine how much the material stretches, by how many centimeters it needs to be reduced in the pattern, so that when worn, the turtleneck does not turn into a hoodie. It is determined by width as follows.

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Use chalk or a piece of soap to make a 10 cm mark. Place the knitwear against the edge of the ruler, and holding it with your hand at one mark near the beginning of the ruler, with the other you begin to slightly stretch the knitwear. This should be done without strong tension, so that the material does not deform and the turtleneck does not turn out to be very tight to your figure, and most importantly, does not create folds in the armpit. IN in this case It's better to under-tighten than over-tighten.

Example: Marking 10 cm, knitwear stretched to 11 cm. Calculate the stretch coefficient (Kr). Kr - 10 cm: 11 cm = 0.90 cm.

I found a video for you that clearly shows how to correctly calculate the elongation coefficient knitted fabric, and it doesn’t matter at all in what product it will be used, but I will tell you how it is used in calculations below.

Taking measurements

In order to create a pattern, you need to take measurements. To make it easier for you to do calculations later, I will give an example of mine. If you don’t really know how to do it correctly, then wait for the third article, it will be devoted to this very topic.

Chest circumference (Og) - 108 cm;
Waist circumference (From) - 90 cm;
Hip circumference (About) - 112 cm;
Arm girth (Op) - 34 cm;
Wrist circumference (Oz) - 17 cm;
Neck circumference (Osh) - 39 cm;
Back width (Wsp) - 41 cm;
Chest width (W) - 35 cm;
Shoulder length (L) - 13 cm;
Back length to waist (Dst) - 42 cm;
Product length (Dis) - 60 cm;
Barrel height (Wb) - 22 cm;
Hip height (HB) - 25 cm.

Don’t be intimidated by so many measurements; they will allow the product to fit your figure more accurately.

Creating a knitted turtleneck pattern according to your measurements

If you are building for the first time, then make a pattern on paper first. We will build both the back and the shelf at once.

Step 1. We build all the horizontal straight patterns

Step back a couple of centimeters from the top edge of the paper and draw a shoulder line.

From there, set the length of the product down. Example: 60 cm.

Again, from this line you need to set aside the Length of the back to the waist and draw the waist line. Example: 42 cm.

From there downwards we measure the Height of the hips, draw a line of the hips. Example: 25 cm.

The hip line can be above, below or along the length of the product. It all depends on where your turtleneck ends.

From the waist up we set aside the Height of the barrel minus 2-2.5 cm for the freedom of the armhole, build a straight line corresponding to the armhole.

22 cm - 2.5 cm = 19.5 cm.

Step 2. We build the side seam, as well as the width of the back and shelf

On the chest line along the back and shelf from the folds, measure the distance, which is calculated using the following formula: Multiply the chest girth by the elongation coefficient and divide by four.

108 cm x 0.90 /4 = 24.3 cm.

We debug this result from bends to points 3 And 9 .

I usually do not multiply the Waist measurement by the coefficient for low-stretch knitwear, but take it without changing. We measure and place 4 And 10 .

Example: 90 cm/4.

This results in a smoother side seam and a lighter fit at the waist. This is especially true if you have a tummy. With this construction, it will not stick out from under the product, and it will be easier to put on such a turtleneck.

Measure the hip circumference by multiplying the stretch factor and dividing by 4.

112 cm x 0.90 /4 = 25.2 cm.

We measure this measurement from the fold along the back to the point of the number 5 and along the shelf from the fold to the number 11 . In parallel we set them 6 And 12 .

Smoothly sew the side seam.

From the fold along the armhole line, we adjust the measurement: Back width minus 0.5-1 cm, divided by two. We get point 2.

(41 cm - 1 cm) /2 = 20 cm.

Similarly, from the fold we measure the width of the shelf minus 1-1.5 cm, divided by two. We get the point 8 .

(35 cm - 1.5 cm) / 2 = 16.75 cm.

From them we draw vertical lines up, put 1 And 7 .

Step 3. Constructing the neck of the pattern

Along the back and front, we set aside the width of the neck, which we calculate using the formula: Divide the neck circumference by 6.

39 cm/6 = 6.5 cm.

I don’t add any extras to the neckline, I just cut it without seam allowances. We draw a segment from the fold along the back and shelf. We put 13 And 15 .

The depth of the back neck is determined by the formula: Divide the width of the neck by 3.

6.5 cm / 3 = 2.2 cm.

From numbers 13 14 .

The depth of the shelf neck is determined by the formula: Neck width plus 1.5 cm.

6.5 cm + 1.5 cm = 8 cm.

From the number 15 build a segment down and put 16 . We design the neckline along the back and front.

Step 4. Constructing the shoulder of the pattern

From point 1 set aside 2-2.5 cm, place 17 . From point 13 through the point 17 We build a segment on which we measure the shoulder length minus 0.5-1 cm. For a turtleneck, I always reduce the shoulder. When it is a little higher, it looks more neat. If you make it exactly to measure, it will visually look a little deflated.

13 cm - 1 cm = 12 cm.

From point 7 construct a downward segment equal to the distance between the points 1 And 17 plus two, put the number 20 .

2 + 2 = 4 cm.

The shoulder on the shelf is built similarly to the back, we put 22 .

Points 19 and 22 can be located either behind the vertical segments or on them or behind them. It all depends on the measurements Dpl, Shs and Shg.

Step 5. Constructing the armhole of the pattern

We measure the distance between the numbers 17 And 2 . Divide it by 4 and postpone the resulting result from the point 2 up. We put 18 .

18 / 4 = 4.5 cm.

From the number 8 upward we construct a segment equal to the distance between the points 2 And 18 minus two. We get point 21.

4.5 - 2 = 2.5 cm.

We design the armholes as shown in the figure. The angle between the shoulder and the armhole must be maintained at 90° so that after stitching the armhole at the top is smooth and not angled.

Step 6: Constructing the Turtleneck Sleeve

I never build a sleeve together with the product itself; I do this after the shoulder seams are sewn and the fitting is done. You may need to cut the shoulder a little, and this will change its length - this value will be very important for you, since it is necessary to construct the sleeve.

We draw a vertical line in the middle of the sheet. From the top edge we put down the Height of the edging, it is determined as follows: Length of the armhole divided by 3.14.

47 cm / 3.14 = 15 cm.

How to measure an armhole? We lay it out on the table after the shoulder seams, place a measuring tape on the edge and measure. Take three measurements: the armholes as a whole, and then the backs and fronts. Write down the values.

From the top edge of the sheet measure the length of the sleeve. Example: 67 cm.

Place numbers where the lines intersect 6 And 12 . From point 6 on both sides we measure a distance equal to the arm circumference plus an increase of 0-2 cm, divided by two. These will be the dots 1 And 11 .

(34 cm + 2 cm) / 2 = 18 cm.

I like to build myself a zero rise sleeve. At first it turns out to be quite tight on the hand, but does not interfere with movement. When worn, the sleeve stretches and I am satisfied with its width, but you can make it looser.

We divide each of these segments into 3 equal parts.

18 cm / 3 = 6 cm.

Draw the vertical lines up and put the numbers as in the figure.

From point 2 upward we draw a segment equal to 1/3 Wok - 1.5. We put 3 .

15 / 3 - 1.5 = 3.5 cm.

From point 10 set aside 1/6 of the wok at the top. We put 9 .

15 / 6 =2.5 cm.

From points 4 And 7 down we build a segment equal to 1/3 V approx - 2.2. We put 5 And 8 .

15 / 3 - 2.2 = 2.8 cm.

We decorate the sleeve cap with a smooth line as in the figure. Now take a measuring tape, place it on the edge and measure the length of the edge. First, in its entirety, it should be 0-1 cm larger than the armhole. Then do the same separately for the back and shelf.

From point 12 On both sides we measure segments equal to the circumference of the wrist plus 0-2 cm.

(17 cm + 2 cm)/2= 9.5 cm.

Again, it depends on how you want the sleeve to fit around your wrist. Connecting 1 And 13 , and also 11 And 14 . The sleeve is ready.

I build the collar after I have completely sewn the product. I will discuss its construction in the next article.
Now, to fully understand the construction issue, watch the video, maybe you will find answers to your questions.

And that’s all for today, I think you understand the process of creating a pattern. Well, if you encounter any difficulties, write in the comments and we’ll figure it out together.

Pattern of a turtleneck from knitwear from the base Part 1 Avoiding the chest dart Sleeve Today we will create a pattern for a turtleneck. A couple of minutes and my pattern base according to the 10-measurement system will be transferred to tracing paper. On the main pattern, all the lines for both the one-seam sleeve and the two-seam sleeve have already been drawn, but the pattern is good, so we save it and put it aside.

pattern basic basis according to the 10-measurement system

For a turtleneck, the side seam on the pattern will be in the middle. The pattern on tracing paper is ready.

What you see here is knitwear with complex marble colors; the composition of wool and cashmere is very good quality, practically without acrylic. One inconvenience is that the edge of the fabric gets rolled up. But the elasticity is very good and the width of the fabric is very good - 180 cm. Since the fabric is only 1.30 m and it is necessary to cut the collar on the bias, it is very necessary to lay out the pattern on the fabric. There was enough room for long sleeves and a turtleneck to fit the front and back. We increase the length of the product relative to the pattern, since the item is wool and should keep us warm.

fabric for turtleneck wool knitwear

The fabric must first be decated.

Decorating the fabric

Decatting is a process of wet-heat treatment of fabric with powerful steam and a very hot iron so that the fabric gives the necessary shrinkage. This knitwear should not shrink significantly, since there is a lot of lycra and a good weave of threads, which is moderately elastic, stretches along the lobar and does not stretch very much across the fabric.

Let's talk about how to unmodel, that is, remove the chest dart for knitwear.

how to design a chest dart for knitwear sewing

To do this, you need to make two cuts on the front pattern: the first cut is made from the middle of the armhole to the top of the dart, the second cut is from the side seam line also to the top of the dart, approximately as in the photo. In order to unmodel the dart so that you like the result, you can make the opening a little less in the armhole and a little more on the side seam. However, we must remember that after you unmodel the dart, a little freedom will still remain, as this is inevitable when working with knitwear. However, a thing without darts looks much better than with darts.

The photo shows with a line how much we have opened the dart in the side seam, so much needs to be cut so that the side seams eventually match: photo 5:50

how to model a chest extension for knitwear step by step photos process

In order to match the shoulder lines, you need to measure the length of the shoulder (connecting, as in the photo, the shoulder dart opening) 5:54 The length of my shoulder is 12 cm.

We remove 0.5 cm from the neckline and do not add a seam allowance; in order for the side seams to match, we remove from the sleeve armhole line exactly as much as we made the cut and by how much we extended the pattern when we unmodeled the chest dart. The dotted line in the photo shows how to cut off the excess from the pattern 6:55

We repeat: from the back side, we measure the solution for the shoulder dart and cut it off from the armhole side of the sleeve from the shoulder line so that the total length of the shoulder is 12 cm.

On the shelf side, we also leave the shoulder length equal to 12 cm and draw the shoulder line with a slight bevel, see photo 7:24,

shoulder bevel when modeling a dart

step-by-step photo process of modeling a chest dart for sewing a turtleneck made of jersey

The range of knitted fabrics in fabric stores is impressive! There are natural cotton, viscose weaves, and a variety of lacoste fabrics with interlocks. If you sew for children, you probably don’t experience any particular difficulties: the main thing is to choose the right threads, needle and stitch for the fabric sewing machine. But when sewing women's clothing, for the manufacture of which thinner blades are used, problems may arise. The machine stretches the knitwear while sewing, the needle pushes the fabric into the hole under the foot, and the clothing parts are sewn crookedly, all the time sliding off the work table...

How to sew thin knitwear on a regular machine?

There is a solution: you need to starch the edges of the fabric! We will now show how to do this using the example of making women's golf.

Materials and tools:

Thin stretch viscose,
Threads to match the fabric
Tailor pins,
Fabric scissors,
Any brush, but not thin,
Starch – 2 tbsp.,
Water – 300 ml,

Manufacturing:

1. Surely, you noticed that the edges are thin knitted fabric, sold in rolls, are usually treated with some kind of glue. Thanks to the rigid edges, such fabric is easier to wind into a roll and, of course, then rewind to customers the required footage. To imitate this miracle glue, folk craftswomen suggested using paste or starch solution. The essence of both liquids is the same: first, the liquid mass can be applied to the fabric, and then, after drying, used as a fabric sealant. The paste is made from water and flour, and the starch solution is made from water and starch. Place two tablespoons of starch powder in a small saucepan and add half a cup of water. Mix these ingredients well, turning them into a paste.

2. Place the saucepan on low heat and gradually add water, stirring the solution. After pouring out all the prepared water, wait until the starch solution thickens slightly. Stir it again and remove from heat.

3. Cut out all the golf pieces from jersey: neck, back, front and two sleeves. Bend the neck rectangle in half (across the knitted grooves) and iron it to form a complete piece. Place the neck folded in half on a large tray and use a brush to apply the starch solution to all its edges (except the fold). You need to cover at least 1 cm of fabric from the edge with the solution, because it is important that the future seam lies along the starched parts.

4. Cover all other parts, except the neck, with such starch strips on all sides (after all, one way or another, they will all be stitched and trimmed on a machine). Carefully, so as not to cover anything with starch, hang the fabric parts to dry and wait until the starch hardens. Then (once completely dry) iron the edges of the fabric to even out the pieces.

5. Place the front and back face to face. Secure the shoulder edges with pins and sew on a machine with a knitted seam (it looks like a small inclined zigzag) with an interval of 2.5. Then, to work out the fabric allowances, also zigzag along the shoulders at intervals of 1.5.

6. Unfold the neckline piece and fold it in half parallel to the grooves of the knitwear (face to face). Sew the side edge with a knitted seam, and then turn the neckline right side out, folding it along the previously ironed center.

7. Place the front and back of the knee socks in front of you, which you have already sewn at the shoulders. Turn the neckline with the fold down and, stretching it slightly, place it evenly along the entire cut of the main part and secure it with tailoring pins.

8. Sew the neckline to the main piece using a knit stitch, and then zigzag the edges.

9. This is what the neck seam will look like from the inside out:

10. Using pins, attach the sleeves to the main part and sew them with a knitted seam, and then with a zigzag. At the same time, do not forget that the shoulder seam allowances should turn out in the same direction in which you wrapped them when you sewed the neckline (towards the back or towards the front).

11. Turn the golf inside out, clearly align the sleeves and sides, securing them with pins. Sew a jersey stitch and a zigzag stitch on these seams, from the bottom edge of the sleeves through the armpits to the bottom edges of the knee socks.

12. Fold the edges of the sleeves twice and sew with a straight seam, departing 1 cm from the edge.

1. Procurement of raw materials
Let's take as a basis the sweater pattern (mod. 125) from Burda magazine No. 12/2004.
We will need 1.05−1.10 m of knitted fabric with a width of 1.40−1.50 m for 34−40 sizes.

2. Preparing knitted fabric for cutting
Knitwear containing natural fibers (cotton, silk, wool, linen, viscose) must be decatified. Since the turtleneck will have to be washed, it is better to soak the knitwear in warm water, wring it out in a towel and dry it flat. Then iron the cut from the inside out strictly along the loop columns to avoid stretching it. Don't forget to choose the appropriate temperature depending on the composition of the knitwear. Viscose knitwear is ironed with a moderately heated iron without steam!

3. Determining the type of knitwear
Knitwear can be low-elastic, moderately elastic and highly elastic.

To determine which of them the purchased knitwear belongs to, it needs to be tested.
To do this, you need to take a piece, fold it across the loop columns at a distance of at least 10-15 cm from the cut and mark a 10 cm long piece on the fold.

4. Testing

Stretch this segment so that the loops are not very deformed.
If the segment has increased by 1.5−2 cm (15−20%), then the knitwear is low-elastic, by 3 cm (30%) - moderately elastic, by 5 cm and above (50% or more), then the knitwear is highly elastic.

5. Preparing the pattern for cutting
Low-elastic knitwear does not require changing the pattern. It barely stretches. Do not choose low-stretch knitwear for tight-fitting models!
If the knitwear is moderately elastic, then it is better to take a pattern one size smaller in width.
For highly elastic knitwear and a fitted model, it is better to take a pattern two sizes smaller in width.
It is better not to reduce the length of the pattern. When stretched in width, the turtleneck will shorten in length.

6. Adjusting the size of the pattern

We remove the pattern in a smaller size only for the width! You can even add a few centimeters in length. The narrower the model, the more you need to add in length. Don't forget - when stretched in width, knitwear jumps in length!

7. Determining sleeve width

Since we did not shorten the length of the armhole, the sleeve head does not need to be reduced.
In order for the sleeve to fit around the wrist, you need to narrow the sleeve towards the bottom line.
To do this, measure your wrist circumference and place it along the bottom of the sleeve pattern.
From the elbow points (this is approximately the middle of the sleeve), draw new lines to the resulting points along the bottom of the sleeve.

8. Cut

Fold the cut along the posts so that two folds are formed and lay out the details of the front, back and sleeves on it.
It is better to cut the collar from one layer of fabric.
It is also better to cut striped knitwear from one layer of knitwear to make it easier to combine stripes.
Cut out the details of the turtleneck with 1 cm allowances on all cuts. Allow 2-3 cm for the hem of the bottom of the product and the bottom of the sleeve.
Cut out all parts with the same allowances so as not to mark the seams. Make small notches where the marks are.

In order to prevent stretching of the shoulder seams in the sock, you need to cut out two strips 2 cm wide and equal to the length of the shoulder. Cut out the strips strictly along the loop columns! You can cut them along the edge if it is soft. Instead of strips, you can take thin cotton braid, after wetting it and drying it.

9. Stitch adjustment
Before starting to work on a piece of knitwear, adjust the stitching of the machine and overlocker.

If sections of knitwear are stretched by an overlocker, then you need to adjust the differential conveyor by turning its adjuster counterclockwise.
If you don’t have an overlocker, you can do without it. In this case, the seams are sewn with a narrow, almost wavy zigzag stitch. The stitch width is 05−1mm, the stitch length is 2−2.5mm.

10. Choosing a needle and thread
For knitwear, it is better to use needles with a rounded tip. Such needles do not pierce, but push apart the threads of the loop column. These are Stretch or Jersey needles.
The needle number is selected depending on the thickness of the knitwear - the thinner it is, the smaller the needle number. For thin ones - needle No. 60−70, for thicker ones - No. 80.
To hem the bottom, it is better to use a double needle with a pitch between needles of 2-3mm.
The threads must also match the thickness of the knitwear. The thinner it is, the thinner thread. But here the rule is - The thinner the thread, the higher its number.

11. Sewing. Shoulder seams

Baste the turtleneck and try it on. Then mark out the sides and stitch the shoulder seams, placing strips of knitwear or braid under the stitching on the front side to strengthen them.
Press seam allowances to the back.

12. Hem the bottom of the sleeves

Baste and press the hem allowance at the bottom of the sleeve to the wrong side.

Sew the hem using any knitted stitch or double needle on a machine. Sew the stitch from the front side according to the basting.

13. Stitching in sleeves

Pin and sew the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the marks. Sew in the sleeves, iron the seam allowances towards the sleeves. If you sew a sleeve without a basting, right along the pins, then do not forget to remove the pins before the overlock foot, otherwise you will damage the machine blade!

14. Side seam and sleeve seam

Pin the side seam and sleeve seam ALONG the seam to avoid damaging the serger blade. Sew the sleeve seam and the side seam of the turtleneck in the same stitch. If the seam is a little wiggly, iron it first, and then press the seam allowances onto the back and back of the sleeve.

Along the bottom of the sleeve there is a chain of overlock threads and a seam allowance that needs to be hidden.
Our sleeve seam allowance is pressed onto the back half of the sleeve. We hide the chain of threads under this allowance, and adjust the seam allowance on the sleeve (see diagram) to the height of the hem at the bottom. In this case, the threads are hidden under the seam allowance and are not visible.

15. Bottom hem
Baste and iron the hem to the wrong side of the turtleneck and topstitch it to the right side. The stitching can be done with a double needle or any knit stitch at your discretion.
To prevent the machine from pulling the double stitch, it is better to slightly loosen the tension of the upper thread. If the machine is capricious when sewing with a double needle, then you can put a strip of AVALON - water-soluble embroidery paper - under the seam. It dissolves perfectly when rinsing the product in water. Tissue paper or tracing paper can be used for the same purpose.

16. Collar

Sew the collar into a ring, iron the seam allowances, turn the collar right side out and fold it in half, right side up. Open cuts sweep away.

Pin and stitch the collar into the neckline, slightly stretching the collar sections if the neckline is slightly larger. Sew the collar into the neckline. Press the seam.
On photo view collar sewn in from the inside out. All that remains is to turn the turtleneck inside out.
All! Ready.:)