A grass cardigan is a trendy model for the young and daring. Knitted hats from grass yarn Knitted products from grass patterns
Pullover with colored and patterned stripes
The interior of a room, be it a residential building or an office, always looks fashionable and stylish if it contains elegant leather furniture. The online store of luxury upholstered furniture divanmsk.ru works with the most famous manufacturers of Finnish and Italian furniture: Saiwala, Unital, RIZ, Sediani. The models and colors of the presented leather sofas, leather sofas are amazing in their diversity, and the excellent service and prices will pleasantly surprise you!
Knitted grass hat.
Catchy, chic and elegant!
Catchy, chic and elegant!
Author Kononenko Olga
Magazine "Fashionable" No. 1 (23)
Ottoman made from plastic bottles
What people can’t come up with, what they can make from. And now, while browsing the internet, I came across an interesting idea: an ottoman made from plastic bottles.
The idea and master class are offered by an interesting, cheerful woman with golden hands - Maria Karavanova.
1 bottle connected with tape
2 cut out circles (top and bottom) from thick cardboard
3 connected it with tape
4 I cut out a rectangle and 2 circles from insulation (left over from building a house. Here in Australia they put it inside the walls).
You can use foam rubber, synthetic padding... I connected everything with hand stitches, over the edge.
5 cut out from a used trike. T-shirt, rectangle and 2 circles, sewn on a machine and when the whole design was inserted, hand-sewn
6 knitted from "Traffka" yarn: top-crocheted, side on knitting needles, bottom-circle made of fabric.
7 I connected everything with hand stitches
Now we enjoy our rest, watching TV or doing handicrafts...
Our feet rest on a soft ottoman. We sit on it because neither I nor my husband have problems with excess weight!
Good luck everyone! I'm very glad that my idea will help someone...
No title
Sleepy bear MK
So, pick up a hook and thread, choose the time and, thanks to this master class, after a while you will have a baby like this
Baby's height is about 45 cm
You will need materials:
For the bear:
1. White YarnArt samba (4-5 skeins)
2. Cotton threads (I also take YarnArt) in black, white and blue colors for hook 1.1
3. Angora RAM white threads
4. Hooks 2.1 and 1.1
5. Filler (I use holofiber)
6. Needle with a thick eye and gypsy
7. Puffer
8. Black pastel chalk or dark eye shadow
9. Dental floss (just pay attention that this thread should not stretch)
For clothes:
1. Angora RAM threads in blue and white (instead of blue you can take any other pastel color)
2. Knitting needles 2.5
4. Sewing pins
Head:
1st row: 6 sc
2nd row: 2in1 - 6 times (12 p)
3rd row: 1 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (18 p)
4th row: 2 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (24 p)
5 row: 3 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (30 p)
6th row: 4 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (36 p)
7th row: 5 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (42 p)
8th row: 6 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (48 p)
9th row: 7 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (54 p)
10th row: 8 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (60 p)
11th row: 9 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (66 p)
Row 12: 10 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (72 p)
Row 13: 11 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (78 p)
Row 14: 12 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (84 p)
15 row - 28 row: 84 RLS (84 p)
Row 29:
Row 30:
Row 31:
Row 32:
Row 33:
Row 34:
Row 35:
Row 36: you stuff
Row 37:
Row 38:
Row 39:
Row 40:
Row 41: 2 together - 6 times (6 p) close
Torso:
1st row: Knit into the second loop from the hook 6 sc
2nd row: 2in1 - 6 times (12 p)
3rd row: 1 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (18 p)
4th row: 2 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (24 p)
5 row: 3 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (30 p)
6th row: 4 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (36 p)
7th row: 5 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (42 p)
8th row: 13 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (45 p)
9th row: 14 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (48 p)
10th row: 15 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (51 p)
11th row: 16 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (54 p)
Row 12: 17 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (57 p)
Row 13: 18 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (60 p)
Row 14: 19 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (63 p)
Row 15: 20 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (66 p)
Row 16: 21 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (69 p)
Row 17: 22 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (72 p)
Row 18: 23 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (75 p)
Row 19: 24 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (78 p)
Row 20: 25 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (81 sts)
Row 21: 26 RLS, 2in1 - 3 times (84 p)
Row 22: 13 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (90 p)
Row 23: 14 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (96 p)
Row 24: 15 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (102 p)
Row 25: 16 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (108 p)
Row 26: 17 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (114 p)
Row 27: 18 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (120 p)
28 row - 46 row: 120 RLS (120 p)
Row 47: 18 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (114 p)
Row 48: 17 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (108 p)
Row 49: 16 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (102 p)
Row 50: 15 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (96 sts)
Row 51: 14 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (90 p)
Row 52: 13 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (84 sts)
Row 53: 12 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (78 sts)
Row 54: 11 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (72 sts)
Row 55: 10 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (66 sts)
Row 56: 9 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (60 sts)
Row 57: 8 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (54 sts)
Row 58: 7 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (48 sts) you stuff
Row 59: 6 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (42 sts)
Row 60: 5 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (36 sts)
Row 61: 4 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (30 sts)
Row 62: 3 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (24 sts)
Row 63: 2 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (18 sts)
Row 64: 1 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (12 sts)
Row 65: 2 together - 6 times (6 p) close
Handles:
1st row: Knit into the second loop from the hook 6 sc
2nd row: 2in1 - 6 times (12 p)
3rd row: 1 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (18 p)
4th row: 2 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (24 p)
5 row: 3 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (30 p)
6th row: 4 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (36 p)
7th row: 5 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (42 p)
8th row: 6 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (48 p)
9th row - 15th row: 48 RLS (48 p)
Row 16: 44 RLS, 2 together, 2 together (46 p)
Row 17: 42 RLS, 2 together, 2 together (44 p)
Row 18: 40 sc, 2 together, 2 together (42 p)
Row 19: 38 RLS, 2 together, 2 together (40 p)
Row 20: 36 RLS, 2 together, 2 together (38 sts)
Row 21: 34 RLS, 2 together, 2 together (36 p)
you start to the elbow - knit with canvas
Row 22: 27 RLS, turn
Row 23: 17 RLS, turn
Row 24: 16 RLS, turn
Row 25: 15 RLS, turn
Row 26: 23 RLS, keep knitting in circles
Row 27: 34 RLS
Row 28: 30 sc, 2 together, 2 together (32 sts)
Row 29: 28 RLS, 2 together, 2 together (30 sts)
Row 30: 26 sc, 2 together, 2 together (28 sts)
Row 31: 24 sc, 2 together, 2 together (26 sts)
Row 32: 22 sc, 2 together, 2 together (24 sts)
Row 33: 20 sc, 2 together, 2 together (22 sts)
Row 34: 18 sc, 2 together, 2 together (20 sts)
Row 35: 16 RLS, 2 together, 2 together (18 sts)
Row 36: 1 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (12 sts)
Row 37: 2 together - 6 times (6 p) close
Legs:
1st row: 5 VP
2nd row: 2 RLS, 3in1, 2 RLS, 3in1 (10 p)
3rd row:
4th row:
5 row:
6th row:
7th row:
8th row: 7 sc, 2in1, 5 sc, 2in1, 5 sc, 2in1 - 2 times (46 p)
9th row: 8 sc, 2in1, 6 sc, 2in1, 6 sc, 2in1 - 2 times (52 p)
10th row: 9 RLS, 2in1, 7 RLS, 2in1, 7 RLS, 2in1 - 2 times (58 p)
11th row: 10 RLS, 2in1, 8 RLS, 2in1, 8 RLS, 2in1 - 2 times (64 p)
Row 12: 11 RLS, 2in1, 9 RLS, 2in1, 9 RLS, 2in1 - 2 times (70 p)
Row 13: 12 RLS, 2in1, 10 RLS, 2in1, 10 RLS, 2in1 - 2 times (76 p)
14 row - 20 row: 76 RLS (76 p)
Row 21: 12 RLS, 2 together, 10 RLS, 2 together, 10 RLS, 2 together, 38 RLS (73 p)
Row 22: 12 RLS, 2 together, 9 RLS, 2 together, 9 RLS, 2 together, 37 RLS (70 p)
Row 23: 12 RLS, 2 together, 8 RLS, 2 together, 8 RLS, 2 together, 36 RLS (67 sts)
Row 24: 12 RLS, 2 together, 7 RLS, 2 together, 7 RLS, 2 together, 35 RLS (64 p)
Row 25: 12 RLS, 2 together, 6 RLS, 2 together, 6 RLS, 2 together, 34 RLS (61 sts)
Row 26: 12 RLS, 2 together, 5 RLS, 2 together, 5 RLS, 2 together, 33 RLS (58 p)
Row 27: 12 RLS, 2 together, 4 RLS, 2 together, 4 RLS, 2 together, 32 RLS (55 p)
Row 28: 12 RLS, 2 together, 3 RLS, 2 together, 3 RLS, 2 together, 31 RLS (52 p)
Row 29: 12 RLS, 2 together, 2 RLS, 2 together, 2 RLS, 2 together, 30 RLS (49 p)
Row 30: 12 RLS, 2 together, 1 RLS, 2 together, 1 RLS, 2 together, 29 RLS (46 p)
Row 31: 9 RLS, 2 together, 9 RLS, 2 together, 9 RLS, 2 together, 9 RLS, 2 together, 2 RLS (42 p)
Row 32: 12 RLS, 2 together - 3 times (39 sts)
Row 33: 11 RLS, 2 together - 3 times (36 sts)
Row 34: 10 RLS, 2 together - 3 times (33 sts)
Row 35: 9 RLS, 2 together - 3 times (30 sts) you stuff
Row 36: 28 RLS, 2 together (29 p)
Row 37: 27 RLS, 2 together (28 sts)
Row 38: 26 RLS, 2 together (27 sts)
Row 39: 25 RLS, 2 together (26 p)
Row 40: 24 RLS, 2 together (25 p)
Row 41: 23 RLS, 2 together (24 sts)
Row 42: 2 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (18 sts)
Row 43: 1 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (12 sts)
Row 44: 2 together - 6 times (6 p), close
Ears: knit two parts with grass
1st row: Knit into the second loop from the hook 6 sc
2nd row: 2in1 - 6 times (12 p)
3rd row: 1 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (18 p)
4th row: 2 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (24 p)
5 row: 3 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (30 p)
6th row - 7th row: 30 sc (30 p)
8th row: 3 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (24 sts)
Inner ear parts: crochet white Angora RAM 2.1
1st row: In the second loop from the hook you knit 6 sc.
2nd row: 2in1 - 6 times (12 p)
3rd row: 1 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (18 p)
4th row: 2 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (24 p)
5 row: 3 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (30 p)
Now turn the fluffy part of the ear inside out and sew the inner part as shown in the photo
When you sew it on, turn the ears back.
Spout: crochet 2.1 with white Angora RAM thread
1st row: 5 VP
2nd row: 2 RLS, 3in1, turn and knit on the other side of the VP chain 2 RLS, 3in1 (10 p)
3rd row: 2 RLS, 2in1, 2in1, 2in1 - 2 times (16 p)
4th row: 3 sc, 2in1, 1 sc, 2in1, 1 sc, 2in1 - 2 times (22 p)
5 row: 4 sc, 2in1, 2 sc, 2in1, 2 sc, 2in1 - 2 times (28 p)
6th row: 5 sc, 2in1, 3 sc, 2in1, 3 sc, 2in1 - 2 times (34 p)
7th row: 6 sc, 2in1, 4 sc, 2in1, 4 sc, 2in1 - 2 times (40 p)
8 row - 12 row: 40 sc (40 p)
Ponytail: knit with the main thread
1st row: Knit into the second loop from the hook 6 sc
2nd row: 2in1 - 6 times (12 p)
3rd row: 1 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (18 p)
4th row: 2 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (24 p)
5 row: 3 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (30 p)
7th row - 8th row: 30 sc (30 p)
9th row: 3 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (24 sts) you stuff
10th row: 2 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (18 sts)
11th row: 1 RLS, 2 together - 6 times (12 sts)
Row 12: 2 together - 6 times (6 p) close
Eyes: knit 4 pieces - two each in black and blue using cotton thread, crochet 1.1
1st row: Knit into the second loop from the hook 6 RLS I recommend starting like this: http://holomi.pp.ua/?p=113
2nd row: 2in1 - 6 times (12 p)
3rd row: 1 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (18 p)
4th row: 2 RLS, 2in1 - 6 times (24 p)
You sew them in pairs, as shown in the photo, and embroider the highlights:
Face design:
Sew a nose to your head
Now you take a black pastel chalk, use a knife to scrape some of the chalk onto a sheet of paper, put some pastel crumbs on your finger and make dark circles for the eyes on the face. If you work with dark shadows, you don’t need to crumble them
You sew eyes onto the dark circles, embroider a nose with black cotton thread, and sew on ears.
If you are going to put a cap on the baby’s head, then sew it lower like mine, if not, put the ears on the head and see how you like it best.
Assembling the bear:
So, you take the thread with which you will attach the limbs.
I have this non-stretch dental floss - it’s easy to fasten, it slides where needed, helping to tighten the knot, it doesn’t get tangled, and there’s a convenient tear-off mechanism.
Now fold the bear on a flat surface, take a long needle with dental floss threaded in half (the thread is long enough), and begin stitching the parts in the sequence shown in the photo
,
Explanation of op points(each item corresponds to a number in the photo):
1. Head mounting. First, you make a stitch through the bottom of the head (where the neck should be) and pull the thread to the middle.
2. Attaching handles. Now you insert the needle into the upper part of the body (base of the neck), and bring it out where the shoulder should be. You cut the thread at the base of the needle and thread the second half of the thread sticking out of the head into the needle. In the same way, you insert the needle into the base of the neck, and insert it where the other shoulder should be.
Take your time, make sure that the threads are brought out at the same level, otherwise later one foot will be higher than the other.
Now, in turn, put a needle on the right and left threads protruding from the shoulders and in the upper part of the paw (narrow) insert the needle and withdraw it at a distance of 1-2 cm (the same as with the head), thereby hanging the paw on the thread frame (no need to tighten, the head and arms are just hanging on the threads, so be careful so that the thread does not slip out).
3. Attaching the legs. You take one of the ends, threaded into the handle, and insert it next to the place in the shoulder from which it came out (again, at a distance of 1-2 cm) and bring it out at the bottom of the body, but on the opposite side (see photo) - this is there will be a place for attaching the leg. Do the same with the second thread.
And you attach a leg to each thread (the top is where the narrow part is).
4. Screed and fastening. Now you take the thread sticking out from the leg, insert the needle 1-2 cm from the exit point on the thigh and bring it out at the place of the navel. You do the same with the second thread, but you bring it out not in the same place, but 1-2 cm from the first (see photo).
In front of you are simply parts strung on a thread in a certain sequence. Now pull the strings sticking out of the navel - and the bear will immediately come together and become whole
Tie the threads into 3-4 knots (to be sure), thread the ends of the threads into a needle and insert them into the belly, bring them out from the opposite side, cut the ends.
The clothes can be made like this:
Yarn with long pile is called "Grass". You can knit any products from it using a hook or knitting needles. This yarn can safely be called a favorite of beginning knitters. After all, the pile of yarn so skillfully hides all the unevenness during knitting. There is only one caveat - you need to choose the right model for knitting. Knitted hats made from grass turn out surprisingly cute. And for the set you can think about a bolero, scarf or even a cape. Women's grass hats look voluminous, but at the same time they are light and almost not felt on the head. In just half an evening you can knit a hat from grass yarn. In winter frosts, this hat will not warm you much. She's not as warm as she looks. So you'd better consider a double cap. The bottom layer can be knitted from acrylic or wool blend. Then this hat will be incredibly warm.
To knit a hat from grass yarn with knitting needles, you will need:
— “grass” yarn 50-70g (50g/85m);
— acrylic yarn 20-30g (50g/133m);
- stocking needles
- circular knitting needles No. 4.
Knitted grass hat for women: diagram with description
Cast on 142 stitches on double needles and divide them evenly across 4 needles.
Knit 14 rows in a circle.
Tip: a hollow elastic band when knitting in the round is knitted as follows. In odd rows it is necessary to knit the front ones, and transfer the purl loops from one knitting needle to another. The thread is in front of the loops.
In even-numbered rows we knit only the purl loops, and transfer the knit stitches without knitting, while the thread is behind the loop.
Now you need to divide the knitting into 2 layers. The knit stitches will make up the outer layer of the “grass” hat, and the purl stitches will make up the inner layer.
Transfer the stitches of the outer part of the hat to an additional needle, continuing to knit in the round with acrylic thread.
After 50 rows of stockinette stitch, fold this tube in half and sew the loops using a knit stitch.
From the additional knitting needle you need to transfer the loops back and knit another 55 rows with the front (or purl) stitch. Fold the knitted grass hat in half and sew it in the same way as the first part.
It turns out to be a rectangle. You need to put a piece of acrylic yarn inside and hem it in the corners.
You will get not just a cute knitted hat made from grass, but an interesting hat with ears.
Tip: the ears can be left sticking up, or folded down.
A hat made from grass yarn for women looks catchy and impressive, although it is knitted easily and quickly. The result of knitting such an accessory will please you. If, after viewing the description of a knitted hat made from grass yarn, you already have such a thing in your wardrobe, then you will want to.
Album “Knitting is your hobby. Special issue No. 3 2012"
You need 20 of these motifs. Then we begin to assemble the yoke.
The front part of the yoke consists of 5 motifs, the back part consists of 3 motifs. I assembled them with crochet, but you can also sew them with a needle.
Then, using 5-7mm knitting needles from white grass, we cast on 40 loops loosely and knit a loose fabric so that it moves, we knit loosely until we run out of 2 skeins of 100g each. We knit two of these fabrics. I have a length of about 120 cm. And we sew the first fabric to the yoke with a crochet on the front side with black “grass” threads.
Then we tie the second strip of grass. I drew the diagram by hand.
From the side parts we sew 6 motifs with flowers in the center. We smooth out the corners, filling them with sts 1n and 1ch.
We tie the entire product with black grass, including the neckline. Everything. You can wear it and admire yourself.
Lilac crochet fur coat
A glamorous lilac fur coat made of fluffy yarn... and not a single arctic fox was harmed! Although it’s more likely not a fur coat, but a cape or bolero, so as not to freeze in a beautiful festive dress!
Author: Irina Zhadan-Khazeeva, Dnepropetrovsk
Size: 44-46
You will need: 500g of Samba Yarn Art yarn (100% Polyester; 150m/YOg) and 180g of Pearl YarnArt yarn (100% viscose, 270m/90g) lilac color;
hook number 3.
Description: knit 2 hexagons along cx. 1. At the same time, knit rows 6, 11, 16 with “Pearl” yarn, replacing C/1H with C/2H. Total knit 20r. schemes. The motives should be consistent, this is the main idea of the designer.
In the 20th row, combine points A (Fig. 1), and perform a shoulder seam during knitting.
Continue knitting 3 sides of the hexagon:
1r. yarn "Pearl" and 2p. Samba yarn.
In the 23rd row, connect both hexagons along the middle line of the back.
Tie a stand-up collar Zr along the neckline. S/1N.
Tie all edges of the product with “Pearl” yarn according to diagram. 2. 
bolero
Size: 38
You will need: 350 g brown melange Fashion yarn (92% polyamide, 8% polyester, 95 m/50 g); straight knitting needles No. 5 and No. 6; 120 cm organza ribbons; 6 metal rings.
Double elastic: cast on half of the required stitches with a contrasting thread; 1st row: using a working thread, knit *1 knit, 1 yarn over*, repeat from * to *; 2nd row: *knit yarn over, remove 1 stitch as purl. without knitting, thread before work*, repeat from * to *; 3rd and last. p.: *knit 1, remove 1 st as purl, thread before work*, repeat from * to *; Unravel the contrasting thread in the finished part.
Elastic band 2 x 2: alternately knit 2, purl 2.
Facial surface: faces. r. - persons p., out. r. - purl p.
Knitting density, knits. satin stitch, knitting needles No. 5: 17 sts and 20 r. = 10 x 10 cm.
Back: on knitting needles No. 6, cast on 74 sts and knit 4 r. with a double elastic band, then knit with a 2 x 2 elastic band. After 6 cm, switch to needles No. 5 and continue knitting with a 2 x 2 elastic band. After 12 cm from the cast-on edge, knit. stitch, evenly decreasing in 1 r. 1 x 6 p. After 28 cm from the elastic for raglan bevels, decrease on both sides after the first 2 and before the last 2 p. in every 2nd r. 19 x 1 p. After 20 cm from the beginning of the raglan bevels, set aside the remaining 30 p.
Right shelf: on knitting needles No. 5, cast on 9 stitches and knit. stitch, adding on the right after the first 2 stitches in every 2nd r. 25 x 1 p. 28 cm from the cast-on edge, make a raglan bevel on the left, as for the back. At the same time, after 33 cm from the cast-on edge for the neckline, decrease on the right after the first 2 sts in every 2nd r. 15 x 1 p.
Left front: knit symmetrically.
Sleeve: on knitting needles No. 5, cast on 54 sts and knit 4 r. double elastic band. Next, knit with an elastic band 2 x 2, adding on both sides every 6th row. 4 x 1 p. After 16 cm from the cast-on edge, make raglan bevels, as for the back. After 20 cm from the beginning of the raglan bevels, set aside the remaining 24 stitches.
Assembly: sew shoulder seams and raglan seams. For the placket and collar, using knitting needles No. 5, cast on 350 stitches along the bottom edge, center edge and neckline of each front, along the top edge of the sleeves and along the back neckline (including the ones set aside), and knit with 2 x 2 rib. After 6 cm, switch to knitting needles No. 6 and continue knitting with an elastic band 2 x 2. After 11.5 cm from the cast-on edge, knit 2 p. double elastic band and bind off all loops. Sew side seams and sleeve seams. Sew 3 rings from purl. sides to the right shelf, behind the hinges of the strap, at a height of 18, 23 and 28 cm from the bottom edge; Sew 3 more rings symmetrically to the back. sides to the left shelf. Thread a ribbon through the rings crosswise and tie it.
Knitting pattern:
These stunning coats fascinate with their beauty, despite the fact that they are knitted with regular knit stitches.
for such a coat it takes three and a half 100 gram skeins of grass, 150 m each, and two wool skeins, 130 m each.
“I don't make any pattern! For the age of two years I cast on 230 stitches (you can do 250 as you like) with grass, the coat is knitted in one piece up to the armhole line! After casting on the loops, knit 20 rows with grass, then switch to a regular thread and evenly decrease 20 loops in one row and knit 8 rows (there are 210 loops on the knitting needles), then knit five with grass, also in the first row, make an even decrease of 10 loops, knit 14 rows! In this way, alternate stripes to the desired length and until there are 120 stitches left on the knitting needles (if there are more than 120 stitches in the last strip, make more reductions, adjusting to the required amount) Next, divide the fabric into shelves and a back, knit everything separately starting from the shelf - 30 stitches , unfold the work, bind off 5 loops about the armholes. knit 10 cm in stockinette stitch (the whole coat is knitted with this stitch), close the neckline once 4,3,2,1,1 in every second row, knit the second front in the same way! Back - for the armholes, bind off 5 loops on each side, then knit the desired length and bind off all the loops in one row!
There is no specific description, I knitted it myself according to the pattern in the photo, so I knitted what I figured out!
Sleeves: cast on 40 loops with regular thread, knit the required length with an elastic band 1*1, add 10 loops in the last row, knit the first strip 14 rows with grass in stockinette stitch, then switch to regular stitch and knit 8 rows (alternate until the required sleeve length), at the same time I do Add 1 stitch on both sides for sleeve bevels in every 6th row.
Sew on the sleeves, crochet stbn around the edges of the front, making holes for buttons! You can knit a collar according to any pattern or a hood according to any pattern for children’s blouses; there are a huge variety of them on the internet.”
Sew-on closed collar with corners
The collar is knitted separately from the product according to the pattern. To construct it (Fig. 1), take half the size of the width of the back neckline (aB = b cm) and half the size of the width of the front neckline (Ba = 11 cm).
Construct a rectangle AVGD. Its long sides are equal to the sum of the taken dimensions: 6 cm 11 cm = 17 cm, the short sides are equal to the width of the collar, suppose 8 cm. Line AD is the middle of the fold of the collar.
An example of calculating loops.
In 1 cm - 3 loops, in 17 cm there will be: 3 loops *17 = 51 loops. For the entire collar: 51 loops*2 = 102 loops 2 edge loops = 104 loops.
They begin to knit a collar on 104 loops with the main pattern, and a finishing strip is made along its edges. It can be associated with an angle. If the product has a crochet finish, then the collar can be crocheted. In this case, the finishing strip is not knitted.
How to knit a hood?
For a classic hood, you need to pick up loops along the edge of the neckline. In order to be accurate, you should type on the front side. Fasten the thread at the beginning of the row and, using a knitting needle (or hook), begin to pull the working thread through the loop on the product. The loops remain on the knitting needle. Having cast on the loops, you need to knit 2 rows with a simple stockinette stitch.
ch4 (250×278, 15Kb)
Next, the hood is knitted in short rows. To do this, knit the next front row not completely, turn the knitting, yarn over, and again without finishing the row with purl loops, turn the knitting. Thus, first one side part of the hood is knitted, then the second is knitted. Thus, we knit a hood of the required length. Then close the loops on the sides.
After this, the middle part is knitted. When knitting the middle part, pick up the side loops and finish knitting. Several rows along the edge of the hood can be knitted with an English elastic band or crocheted openwork. This is what an approximate diagram of the hood looks like.
Hood-collar.
In knitting, along with the classic hood, which resembles the shape of the heel of a sock, the hood-collar is especially common. There are several ways to do this. Here is the simplest of them.
The neck line on the base pattern for the back and front remains unchanged, only the dimensions of the fastener and hood are outlined. Knit the back and front pieces, leaving the neck loops open. Sew the product, place the neck stitches on one needle and, starting from point A, knit a row of knit stitches along the right side of the work. Slip the loops up to point A onto the right needle without knitting. Next, make the hood with a placket pattern, such as garter stitch, adding loops in the middle of the hood at the back (see “ “ sign) or along the edge of the hood.
There is another way to knit a hood.
To do this, you need to knit a rectangle of the required length and width - this is the back and top of the hood. Then loops are picked up along the side edges and then knitted with a simple fabric. Several rows at the end also need to be knitted in short rows.
Using these methods, you can knit any shape of a hood - cap, collar - hood or anorak. In different cases, the knitting of an additional part of the hood is simply added.
The hood can also be crocheted. To do this, you need to knit a chain of air loops of the required length. The length is measured according to the length of the neck. Then knit 2-3 rows according to the pattern you chose. Now we decrease one loop in each row. Having knitted 4 cm from the beginning of knitting, we continue knitting without decreasing. After 19 cm from the beginning of knitting, the hood is divided into two parts and each part is knitted separately. To round the back of the head, you need to decrease 2 loops in two rows. The loops are decreased at the end of the row, i.e. from the inside. Then, 23 cm from the beginning of knitting, we finish knitting both sides of the hood. We make a seam by sewing together two parts of the hood.
Happy knitting and easy stitches to everyone!
The fantasy yarn “Travka” looks so unusual, interesting and positive even in a skein that it will be difficult for even less skilled craftswomen to resist buying it. Working with it is not so difficult, but you should remember a few rules that will help you knit a truly high-quality product.
“Travka” is a very interesting in appearance, unusual yarn with a pile from 0.5 to several centimeters. It is made from polyester or polyamide, sometimes with the addition of Lurex or other metallics. The variety of colors, unusually delicate, silky structure - all this allows the yarn to be used not only for the production of children's and adult clothing, but also for the manufacture of toys, souvenirs, blankets and much more. When used skillfully, products and their parts made from “Grass” will resemble spring grass, shaggy frost, and precious fur.
Yarn “Travka” is suitable for hand knitting with knitting needles and crochet; it can also be knitted on a machine. And, it would seem, knitting should not create any problems.
Firstly, products from “Travka” do not require the choice of complex patterns, neither relief nor openwork - the pattern will still be hidden by the pile. They knit from this yarn with knitting needles - regular satin stitch, knit or purl; crochet - double crochets. Secondly, for knitting you should take a large hook or knitting needles, No. 4 - 6, which means the work will go quite quickly. There is no need to be afraid of excessive looseness of the canvas - the thick pile will hide all this.
But those who have already knitted with Grass know that the pile, while decorating the product, makes the work very difficult. In order not to spoil the yarn and not waste time, you should remember a few simple rules.
The basic rule is that the pile of the thread during knitting should be positioned with the tips of the threads from left to right. This is one of the main difficulties - the skeins that go on sale are formed just the opposite way, and at first glance it is easier to knit. This is true, but the quality of the canvas will suffer. It is necessary to rewind the purchased skein, but it is easier to pull the tip of the thread from the middle of the skein and start knitting from there - in this case the direction will be correct.
With very thick and long pile, you literally have to knit “by touch”; you need to be very careful not to miss a loop. At first it is difficult, but as you work, you will gain dexterity, and perhaps your own way of releasing the pile, making the canvas fluffier.
Those who want to get a denser product will have to add either a dense cotton thread like “Iris” to the “Travka” thread, or, if they need a warmer product, a thin wool thread. Products made only from “Travka”, especially those knitted with thick knitting needles, turn out to be too airy and plastic, and do not hold their shape and size very well.
But don’t forget that “Travka” yarn can be used to knit not only and not so much independent products. It is very good for finishing clothes, both knitted and sewn from any material. Elements of sweaters, jackets, suits, shawls knitted with “Grass” will transform the usual appearance of clothing.
