Make a crochet hook with your own hands. How to make a hook with your own hands - Crochet. Blog Nastika. How to speed up hand knitting: a set of secrets

We are all familiar with the desire to save energy and time on routine little things and the techniques that allow us to do this - life hacks. Let me introduce you to some of these knitting techniques today.
Ball holders. All kinds of devices designed to ensure that the ball does not “run away” anywhere.
Using a paper clip, build a knitting device - place the ball in the bowl, attach the clip to its side and thread the thread through the metal eye. The thread will not run away.

How to easily and simply prevent a ball of thread from running away from you? Cut out the neck of the bottle and leave a strip of plastic that you can attach to the back of a chair and then secure to the neck of the bottle. An irreplaceable thing multicolor knitting.

Another idea for multicolor knitting.
Crochet yourself a thimble like this, and the thread won’t go anywhere.

You can make these sheets of cardboard to store the name and number and color of knitting threads. An original idea for storing knitting needles. You buy a photo album and put in knitting needles - circular and sock. A file folder can also be used for the same purpose. Beautiful design- it's up to your taste

This simple device will help you avoid losing the right row:
After finishing knitting, put on regular wine corks onto the knitting needles - and not a single stitch will “run away”. You can use an eraser instead of corks.
Rubber softeners from ballpoint pens will help make crochet hooks more comfortable.
Do you knit everywhere and always? Bend the tip of the crochet hook to make it easy to carry on your keychain.
For knitting on the road and any other places with insufficient lighting, you can use luminous knitting needles and illuminated crochet hooks.
You can order such a tool in American and Asian stores. online stores. New look needlework - knitting with laser swords!
So that an auxiliary knitting needle, hook and other necessary metal things are always at hand, make yourself a bracelet like this:
If you haven’t finished knitting and are afraid of pricking yourself, sew these cuffs:
And finally, my favorite For those who want to knit always and everywhere, here are a few ideas for knitting bags:

Bonus! And here is the pattern of such a handbag

1. ALWAYS knit a swatch. Do not waste time and expensive yarn on this. You knit with knitting needles that you plan to use to knit at least 1-2 repeats, cast off the stitches, wash with warm water and dry. Only then can you measure the sample and calculate the loops for a large product.

2. It is not at all necessary to choose the number of knitting needles according to the recommendation indicated on the yarn package. Each needlewoman has her own special knitting style: loose or, conversely, tight. Using the size of the knitting needles, you can adjust the density of the fabric to suit your style.

3. After the product is knitted and sewn, it is necessary to wash it in order to wash off the factory wax and moth treatment. Erase with liquid agent for washing wool in warm (not hot) water. Rinse several times. Wring out with a towel, gently twisting. Leave to dry on a horizontal surface on a dry towel, giving the desired shape with your hands.

4. Don't skimp on yarn. Life is too short to knit from synthetics and low-quality wool. Remember how, as a child, you didn’t like a prickly hat and biting mittens. For children's clothing, choose merino. It is soft and does not prick at all. By saving, you will spend time knitting something that will lose its appearance after washing. The thread will stretch and the paint will fade. Good yarn lasts in a product for years.

5. How to make invisible, beautiful decreases: hide the purl stitches under the knit stitches. We knit the facial loops in arans together last. “Eat” everything around the ornament. Change the needle size to a smaller one in places where you decrease.

6. After unraveling the product, if you decide to knit something new from this yarn, you must wash the yarn. It will become smooth, it will be more convenient for you to knit. Wrap the yarn in long loops, like a skein, around the back of a chair, for example. Tie with a contrasting thread to avoid tangling. Wash, leave to dry, hanging by one of the fastening threads. Once dry, rewind into balls.

7. It is better to knit hats, snoods, sweaters, sleeves in the round without a seam. For hats and snoods, it is better to use knitting needles on 40 cm fishing line. For sweaters, 60, 80 cm fishing line. Sleeves and mittens can be knitted using 80, 100 cm fishing line.

8. Paired items can be knitted simultaneously on knitting needles with fishing line using the “magic loop” method. Use knitting needles with a smooth connection to the fishing line (for example, detachable ones from Knit pro) and fishing line 80, 100 cm long.

9. You can knit in 2 threads from one ball: the thread is outside and inside the skein. Or, for example, take 2 ends for knitting using the “magic loop” method.

10. Write down the initial data on the product: name of yarn, article number/color name, number of knitting needles, number of cast-on loops. When you want to repeat, you won't have to remember or calculate.

11. Elastic bands are knitted with knitting needles of a smaller diameter, the “rice”, “pearl” pattern makes the item more voluminous, aranas and braids compress the item. Aranas and braids, jacquard are knitted with knitting needles of larger diameter.

12. It is easier to knit a hat of the desired shape using different sizes of knitting needles: the elastic is 1/1.5 smaller in size, the main part is with the knitting needles indicated on the yarn package, closer to the top we again switch to a smaller size to smoothly narrow the product.

Every needlewoman knows that a competent combination of colors is 50% of success! When starting to create a new product, you need to think through everything down to the smallest detail. In selection the right colors yarn color chart and amazing palettes will help you.

Artists use a color chart to understand how colors work together.

Blue, red and yellow are the primary colors. Orange, green and purple are secondary. The remaining colors are tertiary.
The segments that are next to each other are very harmonious. Colors that are directly opposite provide beneficial contrast.

Conventionally, the color chart can be divided into 2 parts: warm shades and cold shades. The warm part of the color spectrum consists of red, yellow, brown, and orange tones. Use these colors to create brightness and depth. The combination of warm shades can greatly enrich finished product.

Blue, green and purple are on the cool side of the color chart. By adding cool tones you can balance out warm tones.
Advice for all needlewomen: before choosing yarn, constantly touch the thread to your face to determine if this color scheme suits you.

How to speed up hand knitting: a set of secrets

Tool selection

The tool is the most important component of the process of creating a product. I’ll say right away that for myself I found the most convenient knitting needles with which you can knit almost at the speed of light. These are the so-called knitting needles for hats (like for socks, only longer), they are matte and have pointed ends.

I always choose knitting needles and hooks with pointed ends. This tool makes it easier and faster to grab the loop the first time.
The knitting needles should be as light as possible and without tips. Overweight- this is an extra load and loss of knitting speed due to fatigue.
When knitting a wide fabric, I choose knitting needles with a matte finish; the knitting will not slip off the other end of the knitting needle.
When knitting narrow fabric, you can choose the smoothest glossy knitting needles. The canvas will slide easier, it will not need to be pushed and thereby waste precious time.
It is important that the thickness of the knitting needles matches the thickness of the yarn.
For the convenience of knitting, before starting to work with circular knitting needles (regardless of the chosen knitting method), I straighten the fishing line, holding it briefly hot water.
If the ends of the tool are rough and begin to snag yarn or fingers, I part with them. It distracts from work, takes time and is annoying.

I do not use various additional tools in my work, such as additional knitting needles, pins, markers, row counters and other items that distract from the main work. When knitting ropes, braids and other similar patterns, I transfer the stitches between two needles in the order in which they are needed and then knit them. This is how I knit absolutely all patterns. When knitting items knitted on four needles (such as socks or mittens, for example), I often choose knitting methods on two needles (without a seam), and there are such.

Knitting method

I don't knit in the round on circular needles. I have no complaints about the knitting needles themselves; they can be convenient when knitting very wide fabrics. But! Not in a circle. When knitting in the round, you need to constantly push the fabric. Such actions cause the canvas to wear out and lose the appearance of a new thing. And this is also a colossal waste of time.
I don’t consider the absence of a seam on a garment knitted in a circle to be a plus, since such a garment does not have a side orientation (front-back, left-right) and this is not convenient when using the product. I connect the product neatly knitted stitch using a hook (I will describe in detail exactly how I do this in the next master class) and never using a needle! My firm opinion is that a needle is not a knitter’s tool, such a seam spoils appearance products.
I don't knit according to patterns. Don't knit according to the pattern, understand it! It will take much less time to figure out the pattern and understand it than to constantly be distracted from work by looking at the diagram.
I select yarn in convenient small skeins and knit by pulling the thread from the middle.
The thicker the yarn, the faster the item will knit. If you need to quickly make a product, choose thick bulky yarn.
Don't knit too tightly. Loose loops are knitted much faster than tight ones. If you need a denser fabric, you can use thinner knitting needles.
I don't turn the fabric over when knitting. Having finished the row with my right hand, I pass the auxiliary knitting needle to my left and begin to knit the next row, in the opposite direction, without turning the fabric over. This is convenient because time is not wasted on turning the fabric over, the pattern is always before your eyes and is easier to reproduce; when knitting with several balls at the same time, tangling is eliminated. This method may seem unusual, but it is very simple and convenient. You just need to get used to it. I came up with it myself and always use it. I have never met anyone who knits like this. If you knit like this, write in the comments, I will be glad to find like-minded people :)
If someone finds my method interesting, perhaps later I will do a master class and even record a video of exactly how I knit.

I took note!

DOWN HINGES…

...can be saved! Take a hook the same size as the needles and insert it into the corresponding dropped stitch. Raise this loop with your crochet hook so high that you can knit it out of the broach like a chain loop. With the last pull, put the loop back on the knitting needle.

FACIAL SMOOTH…

...it will be better and smoother if, on the side where you knit more freely, you work with a full-size needle.

CORRECT SPOKE SIZE...

...is very important for your knitted items to be successful in all respects. The needle sizes listed on the skein label are always approximate - meaning they are not required for every knitter. Those who knit very loosely should choose thinner knitting needles, those who knit tightly should choose thicker ones. Besides ,

Don't crochet too tightly, otherwise the knitting will fall off, become too stiff, and stop stretching. If you have a tendency to over-tighten loops, it is better to take a hook that is full size larger.

Damaged crocheted products can be easily restored by crocheting new posts in the appropriate place instead of the damaged ones. Then you need to carefully hide the ends of the new thread.

To ensure that a product made using the fillet technique retains its shape longer, it can be tied in a circle with single crochets. To do this, one single crochet is knitted into each base loop, and 5 stitches are made on the side for every 2 rows of fillet mesh. In the corners you should knit 3 stitches into one base loop.

You can do embroidery over Tunisian knitting, preferably with a cross stitch. It looks very elegant. In addition, you can pull a thread of a different color through the loops of the knitted fabric along the bias.

If you need to introduce a new thread into the work, it is best to do this at the end of the row. Insert the hook into the last loop of the previous row, pull out a new thread and knit with it air loops rise.

Products crocheted with patterns of high density should not be starched, otherwise they will be stiff and inelastic.

If you are going to knit a product from cotton yarn, be sure to wash the sample in water that has the maximum temperature allowed for this yarn, as it usually knitted fabric sits down.

If the dialing chain is too long, you may lose count. In this case, knit a few more stitches, and the extra loops at the end can be easily unraveled.

If you can't decide how many buttons should be on the placket and at what distance from each other, start knitting from the left shelf. Place the buttons on finished part and try different options. To a model made of thick yarn, sew buttons not tightly, but on the leg. In addition, in order not to deform the strip fabric, provide a flat transparent button no more than 1 cm in diameter on the wrong side.

Pure wool, that is, made from 100 percent wool. This type of knitwear is not recommended to be machine washed. Even when washed in a gentle cycle, the product will shrink. It is better to wash it by hand in warm water. Before washing, turn the item inside out to avoid fibers sticking to the right side of the garment.

Until you knit the item completely, do not throw away the label. If there is not enough wool, then from the label you will immediately be able to determine the numbers of the yarn and the batch of threads, which determine the quality of the yarn and the color shade of the threads.

If the folded thread twists, the fabric knitted from it will warp and the product will be damaged. If the folded thread does not twist, it can be used for hand knitting.

For openwork knitting It is better to use smooth yarn without fluff and lint, which can close the knitted holes and the pattern will lose its clarity. Smooth wool and threads such as “crochet”, “poppy”, “iris” in two folds are suitable for this knitting.

Under no circumstances should you place the iron on an embossed surface. knitted fabric: the drawing will shrink and look bad.

Instead of knitting, the ornament can be embroidered. This is especially convenient when the design is small and multi-colored or consists of strongly curved lines. Embroidery is best done woolen threads: they lie softly and beautifully on the knitted surface.

When crocheting, the first row often turns out to be curved in relation to the chain of air loops. To prevent this from happening, when knitting it, you need to skip several loops unknitted, for example, every 7th loop.

If, when crocheting, the number of loops has increased, you can knit one stitch out of two from the edge of the fabric. For this you need working thread first stretch under one loop of the previous row, then under the next, then knit the resulting two loops together. If the number of loops has decreased, you can increase it by knitting two stitches from one, that is, knitting one loop of the previous row twice.

WikiHow works like a wiki, which means that many of our articles are written by multiple authors. During the creation of this article, 10 people, including anonymously, worked to edit and improve it.

To knit you need a good one crochet hook. If you love crafting or couldn't find the right size hook at your local store, you can easily cut one yourself. Hand-cut hooks may become your favorite, even if you already have store-bought ones.

Steps

Choose your hook material. You can use wooden or plastic chopsticks or a hardwood dowel. You can even try using a flat, well-dried twig. The work will be less labor-intensive if the material initially has a size and shape close to the hook, especially in diameter.

If you decide to use a chopstick, take a high-quality, long one made of bamboo. The cheap, brittle chopsticks you get when you order Chinese takeout won't be able to be sanded smooth.
Different materials require different handling. For example, wooden and plastic hooks will turn out completely different from factory metal ones. Try different ones to see which hook suits you best.
For a list of the rest of the items you'll need, see the "What You'll Need" section below.

Decide on the length of the hook. You can make the length like this finished hook, with which you are comfortable working. If in doubt, optimal length will be 15 cm. You can also choose the length depending on the product you intend to knit. So, for Tunisian knitting or a very large product, you need a long hook.

Decide which side the hook itself will be placed on if the material you are cutting from is not cylindrical (such as rectangular chopsticks or a raw twig). Which side is flatter? Which side is wider? If you are working with a chopstick, you can take into account the patterns and decor applied to it.

Cut to desired length or a little longer. Remember that during carving, part of the material will be sawn off, and it’s easy to remove the excess length after finishing the work, but lengthening it will be problematic. If you wish, you can leave this step for last so that you know exactly the length of the hook.

Make a large mark at the end where the hook will be located. The easiest way to do this is by sticking the tip of a stick or dowel into a pencil sharpener. Or you can simply round the corners with a knife.

Cut out the neck of the hook. It doesn't have to be perfectly round, but you can round off the square edges of the stick. If you need a smaller hook, you can plane the narrow end of the stick or grind the diameter of the dowel on the hook side and leave the other end thick for strength.
- Make the neck as smooth, even and symmetrical as possible. Plane with long, continuous strokes in the direction of the grain of the wood and rotate the material as you go.
- If you are rounding the tip of a chopstick, plan more on the short sides and only a little on the long sides.
- The neck length must be at least 3.5. The specific length is not important.
- If you rounded the tip with a sharpener, use its shape as a guide when rounding the neck.
Sand the neck until it is smooth and even. . This is not the last sanding, so don't overdo it. Just remove noticeable bumps and chips.

Use coarse sandpaper at this stage to round the tip. This will make it easier to figure out where to cut for the hook.

Make a bracket mark where the first hook cut will be. Or you can simply imagine this mark. Make it a little further from the tip than necessary. You will cut out the hook much later. The location and shape of the hook can be copied from a store hook or its photo.

Make a 45 degree cut on the mark to about half the thickness of the stick. This will be the beginning of the hook. The photo shows a saw made from a multifunctional folding knife, but you can use any other saw or plan with a knife.

Deepen and widen the cut, whittling with a knife. Be careful not to cut all the way through. At its narrowest point, the width of the neck should be between a third and half of its original thickness.

Raise the corners of the cut. This is not necessary, but it will make it easier to grip the thread. Note that this will make the neck even thinner, so don't overdo it, especially if the hook is already thin.

Shape the head and shorten it as it should. If the tip is too long, it will be difficult to insert into the loops. If you used a sharpener, you can sharpen it again. If not, just keep planing and sanding until you get a round head. Rotate the hook throughout the process to create a smooth, round finish, especially when sanding.
- The shape and size of the hook tip depends on your personal preference. Try a few various forms or keep changing the shape until you feel comfortable.
Sand the hook thoroughly, especially the bend and the part of the neck that will be in contact with the yarn. Whenever possible, sand in the direction of the grain of the wood. An inexpensive flat file will help you reach the inside of the hook bend. Remember that sanding can also be used to achieve the final shape.

Try out the hook. You will quickly discover areas that need to be sanded again. Give yourself time to get used to a wooden hook if you have used metal ones before. Give the hook time to develop. Over time, it will become softer, absorb sebum and glide easier without clinging to the yarn.

Practice and experiment. A pair of chopsticks and most wooden dowels are long enough for several hooks, so there is room for experimentation. Having mastered the subtleties, you can do a lot intuitively or by eye. You may be better able to make hooks that suit your crocheting style and specific goals.
Most likely, you will not exactly reproduce the dimensions of a store hook. The size is mainly affected by the diameter. Measure the neck diameter and compare it with the size chart ready-made hooks to see what size your hook is closest to. Most stitches can be adapted to fit almost any hook size and thread thickness. You might want to know a little more about this if size is a factor in your knitting.
The heads of small hooks should be made from the pointed, rounded tips of chopsticks.
Once you learn how to make your own crochet hooks, you can make a whole kit for all your crochet needs. You may find that it is more convenient for you to make and use small or, conversely, large hooks.
For knitting products from thin threads It is better to buy a metal hook of the appropriate size. Steel is strong enough that a thin hook will not break, whereas wood would be difficult to cut such a thin piece.
Work over a trash can, in the yard, or on a surface that can be easily wiped down or vacuumed so that there is no problem getting rid of the shavings.
Remove thin shavings, especially in the early stages. It's never too late to trim unnecessary things.

Warnings

To protect your thumbs, wear a soft thimble while planing. It can be quickly sewn by hand from thick fabric type of rag. It is the same as a regular thimble, but is sized to fit your thumb.
Never point the knife at yourself or anyone else when working, so it won't hit anyone if it slips. If it's more convenient, work on a hard surface like a workbench. You can protect the surface with oilcloth for cutting, an old magazine or a piece of cardboard.

What you will need

A wooden dowel, a quality bamboo or plastic chopstick, or other suitable material. It will be easier to work with a stick whose diameter is close to the diameter of the hook.
A folding or pocket knife or other cutting tool.
Sandpaper, nail file or file. Inexpensive files that have no rubber inside are ideal for sanding under the hook. Whatever abrasive you choose for the final sanding, it should be as fine as the finest side of a nail file.
Tool for cutting wood. This could be a jackknife saw (if the key is thin). If not, any suitable wood saw will do.
Optional: pencil sharpener.
Optional: pencil to mark the location of the first cut.
Optional: A small round file, if you have one, works great for sanding and sawing out the inside of the hook.

Today, not a single construction project can do without reinforcement. The strength and reliability of metal rods significantly improve the characteristics of concrete, allowing it to last for decades, withstanding any load. But in order to knit a reliable frame from rods, you need a hook for tying reinforcement; you can buy it in a store or make it yourself.

When reinforcing a small volume of concrete, builders simply place the reinforcement in the formwork and then fill it with mortar. However, if large concrete products are to be reinforced, for example, a monolithic (slab) or massive strip foundation, then a frame is required. The reinforcement must be evenly distributed throughout the entire volume of concrete in order to reliably perform its function of increasing the strength of the structure. In these cases, a complex frame is made from metal rods.

When working with most types of fittings, it is not advisable to use welding. Firstly, welding sites are more often subject to corrosion, which significantly reduces the strength and service life of the metal. Secondly, overheating of the metal causes it to no longer withstand heavy loads and may fail.

Therefore, professionals prefer to use knitting as a connection. Each intersection of the rods is connected with a special wire, which guarantees the reliability of the frame. To simplify the work, use a hook for tying reinforcement or other specialized tools. It will be useful to talk about them, as well as their advantages and disadvantages, in more detail.

How to knit the frame?

The following tools can be used for tying reinforcement:

Hook for fittings.
Mechanical hook.
Tying gun.

crochet hook

The first option is the simplest and most accessible. If necessary, you can buy it in a specialized store for a hundred rubles or even cheaper. Moreover, it can be made by hand if the suitable material is available - we will return to this later. The downside is low performance. A novice knitter, with a sufficient supply of wire, will be able to produce 6-10 knitting per minute. An experienced master who has worked in this field for more than one year reaches a limit of 15-20 matings. But this is perhaps the maximum. Therefore, it will take quite a lot of time to complete a large amount of work. You will also have to spend time cutting the wire into pieces of the appropriate length and folding it carefully. Since even a small object may require hundreds of pieces, this factor must be taken into account.

Screw hook

The screw hook is the next step in the development of the tool for knitting reinforcement. Outwardly, it looks a little like a regular one, but thanks to it, the knitting speed will increase, and the worker will get tired much less. If, when working with a regular hook, a specialist must twist the ends of the wire and manually twist them, then a screw hook is much more convenient. Loop the loop and ends, then gently but firmly pull towards you. The plastic handle will be fixed in the hand, and the hook itself will begin to spin quickly, securely tightening the loop. Such a tool costs from 600 to 1000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and store. It will be an excellent choice if you need to perform work once on a relatively large object. The knitting speed will increase, however, the wire will still have to be cut and bent by hand.

Automatic pistol

Finally, a special pistol. If you use an automatic gun for tying reinforcement, then even the largest amount of work can be easily handled by a beginner who has never previously engaged in such activities. When working with it, there is no need to cut or bend the wire - a spool of wire is tucked into the gun, which bends and cuts automatically. It is enough to press the gun to the joint and press the trigger - in less than a second the reinforcement will be tightly pulled in place. In a minute, an inexperienced worker can make 50-60 matings. Of course, this is an absolute record. Unfortunately, the knitting gun has a drawback - cost. The most simple models cost about 50 thousand. In addition, not just any wire will work here. You need to use a special one that has a certain diameter and stiffness, and it costs much more than a regular knitting machine. Using the wrong wire can lead to the failure of expensive equipment.

Knowing about different types knitting devices, you can easily make right choice, deciding which option suits you fully.

Making your own hook

Despite the low cost of a crochet hook for reinforcement, some experienced craftsmen, who have worked with fittings for more than one year, prefer to use homemade ones rather than purchased ones. This has its advantages.

At self-production You can give the handle the optimal shape so that it fits comfortably in your hand. Your hand will get less tired and your productivity will increase.
The choice of steel for production; you often come across factory hooks made of soft metal. As a result, it cannot withstand the load and bends.
Make a hook for crocheting reinforcement of the required size. There are times when it is impossible to get to the place of tying with a factory hook because of its length.
Small, but still savings (if materials and tools are available).

Electrode hook

An electrode hook is suitable for small amounts of work. When it is necessary to tie a small frame from reinforcement.

Making a hook with your own hands takes only 5 minutes. You will need: electrode 4, pliers and a grinder (if not, you can do without it).

Let's look at how to do it step by step:

We beat the electrode off the protective coating.
We retreat 1-2 centimeters from the edge and bend it at 80-90 degrees.
We retreat 3-4 centimeters from the other edge, make the first bend at 90 degrees. We retreat another 10-12 centimeters, and make a second bend at 90 degrees. We retreat another 4-5 centimeters and make a third bend.
Let's sharpen the tip of the hook a little so that the wire can peel off better.

The hook is ready, it should have the same shape as in the drawing below.

Homemade hook made from rebar with a wooden handle

A homemade hook is most often used by professional reinforcers, thanks to the advantages described above. Its production will take about 2 hours, and the result will be a hook that is in no way inferior to the factory one.

To make a hook you will need the following materials and tools:

Corrugated fittings 8-10 in diameter, 35-50 centimeters long;
wooden blank for handle;
2 washers - the diameter is equal to the hook handle;
2 nuts;
pliers, knife or hatchet;
grinders and welding;
drill with drill 8-10 diameter;
sandpaper.

Manufacturing procedure:

We grind the ribs of the reinforcement on a grinder so that it becomes smooth. We take a corrugated one, not a smooth one, since a higher grade of steel is used for its production, the hook will be stronger.
Let's prepare the pen. Using a drill, a drill of a suitable diameter, drill a hole in the center of the workpiece. Afterwards, if necessary, we adjust it to required size, knife or hatchet. At the same time, make sure that the hole is in the center of the handle. Next, sand the handle until smooth with sandpaper.
We put a nut on the edge of the reinforcement and weld it by welding. Place a washer on top of the nut, then put on the handle, then the washer and nut again. It is important that there is a small gap between the washers and the handle so that the hook handle can rotate well. To do this, place a piece of paper folded a couple of times between them. Then weld the second nut. Be sure to place water near you so that if the pen catches fire, you can immediately extinguish it.
Now we will sharpen the edge of the reinforcement with a grinder, do not overdo it so that it does not turn out too thin, otherwise the crochet hook will bend.
We retreat 1-2 cm from the edge of the handle and make a bend at 90-140 degrees (it all depends on the chosen type of hook, see examples of bends in the picture below). We retreat 1-2 centimeters from the edge of the reinforcement and bend the tip of the hook with pliers at 80-100 degrees. Make sure that the bends are in the same plane.
To increase the service life of the handle, we cover it with impregnation for wood against rotting and moisture in 2 layers. After drying, coat it with wood varnish.
The hook is ready, all that remains is to make a couple of ties for testing; if it fits well, then you don’t need to bend anything, otherwise you can bend it a little to fit your hand.

Photos of handmade hooks for tying reinforcement

That's it. Now you have not only learned about knitting devices, but also learned how to make a hook for tying reinforcement with your own hands and can easily cope with this task.

For knitting, we have already told you. Now we invite you to get acquainted with those little things that make the work of a needlewoman easier and more enjoyable.

1. Curly knitting needles for knitting braids and arans, i.e. those patterns that require removing and crossing loops - they will not slip due to the unusual shape of the tool. You can replace it with a simple knitting needle or an ordinary hairpin - the loops also hold on it perfectly.

2. Stitch holder, better known as a knitting pin. You will need this tool when you need to leave open some of the loops that are not involved in the work (for example, when knitting a neckline, a pocket, items with raglan sleeves, etc.). Most of all, the holder resembles a large safety pin (depending on how many loops you need to leave, you can choose a holder of different sizes), and it works on exactly the same principle. However, you can completely replace the holder with an auxiliary knitting needle with clamps, contrasting thread or fishing line. But be careful that the left loops do not “run away”.

3. Marking rings, or stitch markers, are needed to mark the beginning/middle of a row when knitting on circular knitting needles, places of decreases and increases, marking the connection of parts and for other necessary points. You can replace it with a thread of a contrasting color or a regular paper clip.

4. A row counter is necessary when knitting large items or patterns with a large number of rows. There are electronic counters that are worn on a finger, and there are mechanical ones that are attached to a knitting needle (there are different types of counters for different sizes of knitting needles). The counter is one of the most convenient devices, making the work of knitters easier, but its absence is not critical - you can always just make notes in a notebook.

5. Thimbles for knitting also come in two types - protective, designed to protect your finger from being injured by a knitting needle, and separating, with which you can distribute the threads different colors when knitting jacquard patterns so that they don't get confused. These devices will be very useful for knitting professionals, but beginners will be able to do without them. However, if you want to have a thimble in your arsenal, that’s your right.

6. A board or tablet for reading patterns is well known to those who are interested in counted embroidery. This device will be very useful for you if you have to work on a thing with complex jacquard or large openwork or relief patterns. Can be replaced with a children's magnetic board with a limiting ruler. (Read about that in our material.)

7. A skein holder is another interesting knitting accessory. The choice of holders is very wide - industrial production and made by hand, and from scrap items. In principle, anything will do, from a kettle and a colander to a large basket or trimmed plastic bottle, which will hold the skein and prevent the thread from getting tangled.

8. Devices for storing hooks and knitting needles will also be useful. They can also be either industrial or homemade, such as sewn or knitted. The main task is to ensure that the tool does not bend or break, circular knitting needles did not get confused, and the stockings were kept in the set.

Of course, the list of knitting accessories is not limited to this list. Among them there are clamps for knitting needles, and rulers for determining the number of knitting needles and hooks, and bases for winding balls and much more.

Prepared a master class on making a bamboo hook Serge.

For many knitters, store-bought plastic or metal knitting tools are not always suitable. This problem is fixable: if desired, anyone can make convenient hook just as our regular reader Serge demonstrated :)

Material: Bamboo sticks, which are given in Chinese restaurants.

Required tool: A very sharp knife (I used a knife that I made for wood carving), 100, 180, 1000 grit sandpaper and a nail file (with three different surfaces).

Description of making hook No. 4: First, I cut off about 1 cm from the pointed edge of the stick and slightly rounded it. I took a regular hook and knitted a couple of loops in order to measure the distance where the flat part should be. I transferred the measured distance to the workpiece and made a mark. From there to the intended place of the hook, I carefully began to sharpen the stick with a knife and give it a rounded shape (Chinese chopsticks are oval), the process is approximately similar to sharpening a pencil. After giving more or less the desired shape and approaching the right size, I began sanding the entire stick with 100-grit sandpaper. The result was a pretty smooth stick. The next step was making the hook itself. How did you do it?! I looked at the plastic one and did it in the same way, with one BUT - I made the recess deeper. The hook is ready. Next, using 180 and then 1000 sandpaper, I carefully and slowly eliminated all the defects and achieved a smooth surface. Especially the hook itself and inside it. Finally, I polished it with a polishing nail file. At this stage, the hook was beautiful and shiny from polishing, the structure of the bamboo looked beautiful. The whole process took 1 hour.

I don’t know yet what peculiarities may arise when making other numbers of hooks. But I will definitely do it for myself, because... I've already knitted this and really liked it.

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