Sewing a women's shirt. Modeling a women's shirt pattern Simple shirt pattern

This stylish fitted shirt can become a staple item in any wardrobe. The shirt goes perfectly with trousers, shorts, plain and bright voluminous skirts. You should definitely sew it, and then you will always have something to wear!

Blouse modeling is done using. The sleeve is modeled using the basic pattern of a single-seam sleeve. You will also need one for the stand-up collar.

ADVICE! You can sew this shirt not only from denim, but also from any other shirt fabric.

Rice. 1. Modeling the back of a fitted shirt

Modeling the back of a shirt

Draw a 13 cm wide back yoke. From the tops of the waist dart, extend a vertical segment upward to the yoke. From the hip line on the side, put 4 cm up. Draw the line of the bottom of the back along the hip line, then to the side, lift it up to point 4, smoothly bending. Cut the pattern along the yoke line and along the dart lines to the yoke along the red dotted line. Cut out the dart.

Shirt front modeling

Rice. 2. Modeling the front of a shirt

Transfer the bottom line of the shelf from the back pattern. Cut the pattern along the bust dart line and along the waist dart lines. Close the chest dart. Draw the yoke of the shelf. Draw a cutting strip of the shirt 3 cm wide along the line of the middle front (1.5 cm in each direction). Cut off the strip and yoke.

Sleeve pattern

Rice. 3. Sleeve and cuff modeling

When modeling a sleeve, use a straight sleeve pattern. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the girth of the wrist according to the measurement + 7 cm. Divide the width of the sleeve at the bottom into 4 parts and from the left division point, draw a vertical dotted line up along the line of the sleeve hem.

Calculate the excess width for the narrowing of the sleeve (Width of the base pattern minus Wrist circumference with an increase) and divide it into 3 parts. Narrow the sleeve to the left, right and from the cut line to the right. Connect the resulting point with a dotted line to the rim. Shorten the sleeve by 5 cm. Cut the sleeve into 2 parts. Additionally, draw a rectangular cuff 10 cm wide (5 cm in finished form) and a width equal to the circumference of the wrist + 6 cm.

Collar pattern

Rice. 4. Cutting details of a fitted shirt

From the main fabric, cut out:

  1. Middle part of the back – 1 piece with fold
  2. Side part of the back – 2 parts
  3. Shelf – 2 parts
  4. Back yoke – 1 piece with fold
  5. Shelf yoke - 2 parts
  6. Plank – 2 parts
  7. Upper part of the sleeve - 2 parts
  8. Elbow part of the sleeve - 2 parts
  9. Collar stand - 2 folded parts
  10. Collar flap - 2 folded parts
  11. Pocket - 2 parts
  12. Pocket flap - 4 parts

Additionally, cut out: strips for processing the sleeve cut - 2 parts and facings for processing the sleeve cut - 2 parts 3 cm wide and 13 cm long.
See more details: How to cut a bar for processing a sleeve cut
Allowances on all sides are 1.5 cm.

Fold the allowance at the bottom of the shirt by 0.7 mm and stitch along the edge. On the placket and cuffs, install buttons according to the markings or sweep out loops and sew buttons.
Your shirt is ready! Wear it with pleasure and be happy!

The shirt, being an exclusively men's item of clothing, has today become an integral part of the women's wardrobe. The women's shirt goes well with jeans, skirts, vests, trench coats and coats.
A white shirt is refreshing and looks elegant. It never goes out of style. Along with the little black dress, the classic women's shirt has the status of a cult item.
Ideally, it replicates a man's shirt and looks a little larger in size, which makes its owner look frail. A woman's shirt is usually made without darts, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with darts or reliefs, made of cambric, good quality cotton or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from checkered fabric, you will get a cowboy shirt; if you sew a fabric with a large floral pattern, you will get a Hawaiian shirt.
In order not to repeat ourselves and teach you something new, in the master class “How to sew a women’s shirt” the processing of some knots has been changed.

As a basis for sewing a women's shirt with your own hands, we take the pattern of model 120 from Burda 10/2016:


With my size 38, I took the pattern one size smaller - 36 size. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder girdle. It doesn’t matter which pattern you take, all shirts are sewn basically the same way.

YOU WILL NEED:

Shirt fabric – 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;
- Non-woven fabric – 30 cm;
- Buttons – 10 pcs.;
- Tailor's scissors;
- Bias tape for finishing;
- Threads and needle for sewing;
- Tailor's pins;
- Tracing paper;
- Pencil or felt-tip pen for marking;
- Ruler.

STEP 1. PREPARING A WOMEN'S SHIRT PATTERN

I had to cut the pattern down to length.

Since the bottom of the shirt is figured, I placed a cross fold on the pattern above the hem line so as not to change it.

The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the hem line with markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed to match the length of the cuff.

Often the magazine gives a stitching bar. Whenever possible, I replace it with a one-piece one, this makes it much easier to process.

To do this, you need to glue the paper part of the strip to the part of the shelf and add another width to get a double strip (a strip with two folds). The second fold of the strip replaces the adhesive spacer, which, again, simplifies the work.

STEP 2. OPENING

We cut out the details of the shirt with equal allowances of 1.5 cm along all cuts.

IMPORTANT! THE STRAPS ARE CUT WITHOUT MARRIAGES.

There are many small parts in the shirt that are strengthened by glue, so it is better to first mark on the fabric the location of these parts (stands, collars and cuffs), then cut out this piece of fabric and strengthen it with glue. And only then cut out all the small details from the glued fabric. This speeds up the work and makes the cut more precise.

IN A WOMEN'S SHIRT, YOU NEED TO STRENGTHEN ALL THE PAIRED PARTS OF THE STAND, COLLAR AND CUFF WITH THIN GLUE, TOGETHER WITH THE ALLOWANCES.

G785 adhesive is perfect for these purposes, as well as H180 non-woven fabric and their analogues. The duplicating material should be thin and flexible, unlike a men's shirt.
Then, using the glue, we mark all the allowances on small parts.

STEP 3. PROCESSING THE SLANKS

The strips are processed first after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not in any way affect the fit of the product.

To do this, you need to peel off or bend the paper strip on the pattern and, using an iron, without breaking off the pattern, iron the strip twice onto the inside of the shelf, first on one part, then turn the shelves over and iron the strip on the other part. Pin the planks onto the shelf.

Then stitch the strips onto the shelf 1mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark loops and buttons on them with an aqua marker. This is needed for fitting. The loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.

DON'T FORGET THAT ON THE PATTERNS IN THE MAGAZINE THE LOOP MARKING IS FOR THE SMALLEST SIZE! PLEASE CONSIDER THIS WHEN REMOVING THE PATTERN.

STEP 4

Place the fold along the back and stitch along the seam allowance. This will fix it. Baste the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to baste only one part of the yoke. The second yoke is sewn on after fitting. Try on the shirt and adjust it to fit your figure.

STEP 5. PROCESSING THE YOKETTS

In order to sew on the second yoke, after trying it on, you will have to unravel the basting on the sides

Lay the shirt face up on the table.

Roll up the back piece onto the yoke with a tube.

Roll up the shelf parts onto the yoke.

Place the second yoke on top face down and pin with the bottom yoke. The twisted parts of the shelves and back remain inside, between the yokes.

Sew the details of the yokes. Trim allowances to 5-7 mm.

Turn out the yokes, pull the details of the shelves and back out through the neck.
Press the seams of the yoke. Topstitch them from the front side of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.

STEP 6. PROCESSING THE COLLAR

Place the collar pieces face to face, pin them together and stitch along the markings. Cut allowances in the corners up to 1 mm from the stitching and trim to 5 mm.

Iron the collar allowances onto the block.

Turn the collar inside out, iron without a transition edge and stitch along the edge.

Trim the bottom allowance on one part of the stand.

Edging the trimmed bottom edge. To do this, apply bias tape made of finishing fabric (I use tie silk) and stitch it onto the bottom edge of the stand 5-6 mm from the edge.

Wrap the cut of the stand with tape and iron it.

Place a stitch exactly in the stitching seam of the binding (immediately under the bias binding), grabbing the second cut of the binding from the inside.

Pin the stand without the trim face down onto the bottom collar. Align the cuts and the middles, check the symmetry of the ends of the stand by folding the collar in half with the stand pinned on.

From the side of the upper collar, place the edged stand face down.

Stitch the stands, grabbing the collar between them. Cut allowances in curves to 1 mm, in other areas to 7 mm.

Turn out the posts and iron them without the transition edge.

IMPORTANT! WE IRON EITHER THE COLLAR OR THE STAND SEPARATELY SO THAT THE COLLAR DOES NOT LOSE SHAPE.

Draw a line for sewing the collar along the top stand.

STEP 7. SETTING IN THE COLLAR

Mark the middle of the stand and the middle of the collar. Pin the collar into the neckline from the front side of the shirt, aligning the centers, ends of the collar and the placket, as well as the marks along the shoulder seams. Sew the collar into the neckline, stitching exactly along the marked line.

Cut out the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, press the seam allowances onto the stand.

Pin a second stand over the seam to overlap the stitching.

Baste the stand so that the basting goes on one side along the edge of the bias tape, and on the other side into the stitching seam of the collar. It is better to leave pins in the corners of the collar for better fixation of the stand.

Place a stitch exactly on the edge of the binding. Finally iron the stand.

STEP 8. PROCESSING THE FIGURED BOTTOM OF THE SHIRT

You can process the bottom of the shirt in the classic way by folding the seam allowances twice and stitching them. But my bottom of the shelves is much shorter than the bottom of the back, so it’s better to process it separately at the shelves and back.

Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, trim it if uneven.
Fold the shelves with the back. Where the bottom roundings end, make notches of 5-7 mm along the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam.

Edge the bottom of the shelves and the back separately with bias tape (the same as the stand, you just need to fold the second cut of the tape). Bend the ends of the trim at the strips inward.

STEP 9. SLEEVE CUTS

Cut the bottom of the sleeve according to the markings.

Use bias tape to edge the side of the cut that is closest to the sleeve seam.

Make a pattern for the cut strip. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (finished 2 cm).
The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the cut. The top of the bar can be made either corner or straight.

Cut out the strips with 1 cm allowances.

Fold the planks in half lengthwise, stitch the top corner along the markings (3 cm above the cut).
Cut and trim allowances in the corners to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch along the allowance.

Turn out the strips and iron them. Place a finishing stitch along the fold of the plank to the height of the cut.

From the front side of the sleeve, apply and stitch the placket to the second side of the cut. Notch the seam allowance above the stitching.

Press the seam allowance inside the placket and pin the second fold of the placket over the stitching seam.

Pin the strip over the cut and stitch along the cut along the edge and top corner.

This is what happened.

STEP 10. STITCHING THE SLEEVE

To the front side For the sleeves, sweep the seam allowances to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Pin the sleeve into the armhole so that the armhole allowance does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance.

Sew the sleeve into the armhole 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The stitching must be at the same distance from the fold of the allowance, otherwise the seam will not be even.

Press the seam allowances onto the armhole, pin and baste.

Stitch the armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the seam allowance fold.

View of the set-in sleeve from the face of the shirt.

STEP 11. SIDE SEAMS

Fold the side seam and sleeve seam allowances so that one allowance extends 6-7 mm beyond the other, pin them together and stitch 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.

You can fold the allowances evenly, but then you will have to trim one allowance. The first method is simpler and faster.

Iron the protruding seam allowance to a smaller one.

Then lay out the front and back pieces, iron the seam allowances, then pin them onto the seam and stitch the sleeves and front pieces onto the pieces.

On the front side there is a seam with stitching. Covered seam with two lines on the inside.

STEP 12. PROCESSING THE CUFF

On the outer cuff, iron the hem allowance to the wrong side and stitch it 1 cm from the fold.

Place the cuff pieces face to face and stitch along the markings. Cut the allowances in the curves to 1 mm, the rest - to 5-6 mm from the stitching.

Iron the allowances on the block, like at the collar. Turn the cuff inside out and iron without the transition edge. Draw a sewing line for the cuff along the fold line of the outer part.

Stitch along the outer edge of the cuff, starting and ending at the bottom cross stitch!

Place folds along the bottom of the sleeve. From the front side, the folds of the folds look at the cut of the sleeve.

Place the cuff inside the sleeve from the wrong side! Sew the cuff according to the markings. Trim the seam allowances to a corner at the ends of the cuff.

Press seam allowance into cuff. Pin the folded edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the stitching line.

Stitch the cuff along the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side of the cuff there are two parallel finishing lines along the bottom.

STEP 13. LOOPS

Punch the loops according to the markings, sew on the buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the stand - along the stand, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the loop is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.

Buttons are sewn on a thread stem.

In this article I have collected the entire process of sewing a shirt, as they say from A to Z!
The author of this miracle: Elena Kucherova is a professional seamstress. So, please don’t praise me too much))

What does the post include:
First of all, the easiest shirt pattern I have ever seen!!!
Next: sewing, transferring darts, video fitting, fitting, and many little tricks!

I wish you creative inspiration and good luck in realizing your plans!!!

Increases in looseness of fit for shirts

To begin with, I decided to give the raises the attention they deserve. Please note that we are now talking about sewing a dress shirt from non-stretch fabric.

Actually, why should we make increases to the measurements?

People tend to move, especially active girls like you, my dear subscribers. Well, let's not move, at least breathe.

Therefore, we can determine the smallest increase in freedom by measuring our chest circumference and taking a deep breath. I checked, 2 cm are added to the chest circumference.

That's it, we've determined it. The smallest increase in chest circumference is 2 cm. With such an increase, you will get the same shirt as the girls from the post “Always fashionable shirt”

But, if you plan to not only breathe in this shirt, but also move, then the looseness allowance to the chest circumference should be increased to 6-8 cm. We get a semi-adjacent silhouette.

For a completely loose shirt, we give an increase of 8 cm.

Now to the thighs.

The increase in the freedom of fit to the circumference of the hips (we move this area less intensively) is usually taken as 0.5 from the increase in the chest. But at least 2 cm.

I don’t give an increase to the waist, since during construction we make waist darts minimal, and remove the excess during fitting.

An increase in the width of the back (Ws) and the width of the chest (Shg) is also important.

To the width of the back you need to add 4 cm, to the width of the chest - 80% of the increase in the width of the back.

When you start drawing, you will understand how much to add to the width of the back and chest. It should correspond to the length of the shoulder and the overall width of the product in the chest area.

We add lengths only if you are sewing a very loose shirt. Then add 0.5 cm to Dpt (Length of front to waist) and Dst (Length of back to waist).

We will increase the width and depth of the neck after construction.

Building a shirt pattern

1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waist line. We sign so as not to get confused.
2. Stepping back 5 cm from the right edge of the paper, place a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid-front line.
3. From the waist up along this line in the middle of the front, we place the DTP measurement (Front Waist Length). Let's call the resulting point O.
4. To point O we draw a perpendicular to the left.
5. Along this perpendicular we plot the value Osh (Neck circumference): 6. Let’s call the resulting point Ш.
6. Down from point O we set the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width.
7. Further to the left of point Ш we place the measurement Дп (Shoulder length). We call point P.
8. From point P down, set aside 4 cm for the shoulder bevel. Let's call the point P1.
9. Draw line ШП1. Extend a little beyond point P1.
10. From the waist down along the middle line of the front, set aside the value of O (hip circumference): 5.
Draw a perpendicular to the left from the resulting point. This is the hip line. Let's sign.
That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated using the formula Ob:5.

1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the value of Ob (hip circumference) plus the increase in the hips: 2.
From the resulting point we draw a perpendicular upward. This is the line of the middle of the back.
2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we put aside the measurement Dst (Length of the back to the waist). We call the resulting point O1.
3. From point O1 to the right we draw a perpendicular. We set aside the value Osh (Neck circumference): 6. Place point Ш1.
4. Place 2 cm down from point O1. This is the depth of the neck.
5. From point Ш1 to the right, set aside the measurement Дп (Shoulder Length) plus 1 cm for fit. Let's call the point P2.
6. From point P2 down, set aside 3 cm to bevel the shoulder. We get point P3.
7. Draw line Ш1 П3. Place the measurement Dp + 1 on it again.
8. We check whether the measurement in the drawing corresponds to Vpk (the height of the shoulder is oblique). If it’s more, leave it until you try it on. The main thing is not less. If less, then reduce the shoulder bevel (distance P2 P3).
9. From the waist line, place the measurement Wb (Side Height) up. Draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let’s label it “chest line.”

We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.
Og2 (chest girth 2) plus the increase in the chest divided by 4. Now add 2 cm to the front, and subtract 2 cm from the back.
For example, Og2 is 100 cm. Plus an increase in the chest of 8 cm.
It turns out (100+8):4=27. The width of the shelf will be 27+2=29. Back width 27−2=25.
We set aside the resulting values ​​along the chest line.
Let's call the resulting point of the shelf width Bp, the back width - Bs. They will still be useful to us.
At the waist line we make the shelf and back 1-1.5 cm narrower than these parts at chest level.
We set aside the resulting values ​​along the waist line.

We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the hip line.
It is calculated in the same way as for the chest.
About (hip circumference) plus the increase at the hips divided by 4. Add 2 cm to the front, subtract 2 cm from the back.
We set aside the resulting values ​​along the hip line.
Draw a side line by connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist and hips.

Let's build a shelf.

1. From the line of the middle of the shelf, draw a parallel line at a distance Cg (Center of the chest): 2.
Let this line start from the hip line and end at the shoulder line.
At the intersection of this line with the shoulder line, let's put point G1.
2. From point G1 down to the resulting line, set aside the measurement Bg (chest height). Let's call point G.
3. From point G1, we put the value (Og2− Or1)+5 to the left along the shoulder line. Let's call the point G2. We connect points G2 and G. The result is a chest dart.
4. Fold the paper, closing the dart. With the dart closed, we continue the shoulder line from point W through point G1.
5. Place the measurement Dp (Shoulder Length) on the new shoulder line.
6. With the dart closed, set aside the measurement W (chest width) plus the increase. We draw a line for marking this measurement in the middle between the neck depth and the side height line.
7. Draw a smooth line from the point of the end of the shoulder, through the width of the front to the point Bp. This is the armhole line. This is where we will sew in the sleeve.
8. Check that the armhole line makes a right angle with the shoulder line. If not, adjust without reducing the length of the shoulder.
9. From point G down, set aside 2 cm. This is the beginning of the waist dart of the front. The end of this dart will be at the hip line. Set aside 1 cm at the waist on both sides of this dart. Draw a dart.

Let's finish the back.

1. Place the measurement Shs (Back Width) plus the increase in the middle between the neck depth and the side height line.
2. Draw a smooth line through points P3, the width of the back to point Bs.
3. Parallel to the line of the middle of the back, at a distance equal to Cg (Center of the chest): 2 −1. draw a line. This is the line of the waist dart on the back. It goes from the hip line to the side height line.
4. On the waist line from this line, set aside 1 cm in both directions. This is enough before trying on. We connect all sides of the dart.

The drawing is almost ready. It remains to make small adjustments specifically for the shirt.

1. Deepen and widen the neckline by 1 cm on the shelf and on the back. This is to avoid being suffocated by the collar.
2. Draw another line parallel to the line of the middle of the front at a distance of 6 cm. Our shirt will be fastened with a placket.

Look like that's it.

Now the important thing! We measure and check the drawing for compliance with the measurements.

We transfer the dart

For a checked shirt, we cannot leave the chest dart on the front where it is - in the shoulder seam. It is necessary to move the dart to the side seam. There, the cell displacement will be less noticeable.

This is done simply: draw a line from the side seam (start 5-7 cm below the armhole) to the starting point of the dart. We cut the pattern along this line, open a new dart, while simultaneously closing the old one. The only thing is to make the new dart 2 cm shorter.

Here is a picture of my cut. The new starting point of the dart is marked with a pink line.

If you want, you can cut out yokes on the shelves and/or back. Simply draw the desired yoke line on the pattern and cut.

Everything else is in order, you can start cutting.

It’s more convenient, of course, to use a full shirt pattern rather than a half one. If you are not too lazy, then finish drawing the second half of the back.

When cutting plaid fabric, we will take into account the following rules:
We place the most noticeable stripes in the middle of the main parts, sleeves, yokes and collars.
We place the dominant transverse stripes at the bottom or along the sleeve.
Do not place bright stripes at chest, waist or hip level - they expand the silhouette.
The transverse stripes must match at the seams. It is easier to combine the cells if you lay out adjacent parts side by side when cutting. You can focus on the bottom, or along the waistline.
It’s luxurious when the checks on the shoulder seams match.
The pattern on the pockets and flaps must match the pattern of the parts on which they are located. If you don’t want to suffer, cut out small details and yokes at an angle of 45 degrees. By the way, this will decorate the shirt.
If you do cut the fabric by folding it in half, pin it often and often to avoid shifting.

Important!
Having pinned the parts onto the fabric, check again the coincidence of the cells, the direction of the grain, and the seam allowances.

Construction of a sleeve pattern

Now about the sleeve.

1. Draw two perpendicular lines. Let's call the intersection point O
2. Calculate the height of the rim. Measure the length of the armholes of the front and back, fold and divide by 3. For a shirt, subtract 1 from this number. For a short wide sleeve - 2 cm.
3. Set the resulting value up from point O. We get point O1
4. Calculate the width of the sleeve: shoulder girth (Op) plus an increase in freedom of fit. For a shirt it is 6-8 cm.
5. We put the resulting value equally in both directions from point O. We call the resulting points P and C
6. Connect P with O1, C with O1.
7. Divide PO1 in half, and the resulting segments in half.
8. Divide CO1 in half, the resulting segments in half again.
9. We draw a curve from point P to point O1 with a deflection of 1.5-2 cm in the first half, and 1.5 cm in the second half.
10. Draw a curve from point C to point O1 with a deflection of 1 cm in the first half, and 1.5 cm in the second half.

Look at the drawing. I marked all these deflections and “bends” in the drawing with the corresponding numbers.

11. Set aside the length of the sleeve from point O1 down. Let's call it point H
12. On both sides of H, distribute the width of the sleeve at the bottom equally in half.
13. Connect the resulting points with P and C, respectively.
14. We measure the size of the edge of the front part of the sleeve. This is the PO1 curve. Compare with the size of the shelf armhole.
15. Measure the size of the back part of the sleeve. This is the CO1 curve. Compare with the size of the back armhole.

If the back part of the sleeve cap corresponds to the back armhole, and the front part of the sleeve cap corresponds to the front armhole, then that’s it, the sleeve is ready.

Most often, the front armhole is smaller than the back armhole. Consequently, the collar of the front sleeve should be smaller. We measure how many centimeters the difference is and cut off half of this difference from the front of the sleeve, and add it to the back of the sleeve. Look at the drawing. The new outline is turquoise.

When I build on paper, I directly cut off a strip from the front of the sleeve and glue it to the back.

Cutting out, sweeping away the details

Trying on a shirt

Where to start sewing a shirt after trying it on

After fitting, we make changes to the cut. First, go to the pattern, you will most likely need it again, and then to the cut.

Let's start sewing:

1. If there are yokes, we sew them to the main parts
2. Sew darts (chest and waist)
3. We process the middle cut of the shelf with a plank
4. Sew the shoulder seams, matching the pattern, and process the cut

I’ll tell you a little more about the bar.

Remember when we added 6 cm to the middle of the shelf?

The simplest thing is to turn the middle section inside out by 1 cm and turn it again by 3.5 cm. Baste and stitch along the face. That's the whole plank. You can also topstitch it along the edge.

Further:
You can already decide on the size of pockets and flaps and cut them out.
The top of the pocket is finished with an overlog or hem stitch with a closed cut. The side and bottom sections of the pockets are folded and basted.
We glue the top flap of the pocket with non-woven material.
We fold the upper and lower flaps face to face, chop or sweep them together, and grind them down as usual. Gradually trim the seam allowances and cut out the corners.
Try on the shirt and decide on the location of the pockets and flaps. Baste and stitch them.

How to sew a stand-up collar

We place the pattern of the collar and stand on the fabric folded in half, observing the direction of the grain thread and according to the pattern of the fabric, we trace it once along the contour, the second time with seam allowances. We cut it out. We check that there are 2 parts of the collar and 2 parts of the stand.

The upper collar and the upper part of the stand are duplicated with non-woven fabric.

First, fold the collar pieces face to face
we chop off

Sew down the collar parts, stitch along the smaller bottom part
we make step trimming to reduce the thickness of the seam allowances
trim the allowances at the corners
turn it inside out
sweep out
fold the collar in half - check the “sameness” of the left and right corners
stitch along the edge or on the foot
ironing

Here is a photo where you can clearly see the roll of the front part to the wrong side.

Next stage:

We pin the stand to the collar and stitch it in place.
Please note: we apply the inner side of the stand to the front side of the collar, and the outer side to the back side. For accuracy, we start chopping from the middle.

Trim the seam allowances of the stand in steps

Turn it inside out
sweep out
we check for the “sameness” of the left and right sides

Here is the collar I ended up with. I made the bottom of the collar and stand from a different fabric.

We apply the collar stand with the outer side to the front part of the shirt, pin it with pins, and stitch it.
We pin the inner side of the stand to the wrong side of the shirt, carefully baste it, and stitch it.

Consider a ready-made men's shirt. Do you see how neatly the stand is sewn to the neck?
Do you think it’s all about the professionalism of the seamstresses? Not only. There's a little secret here. Now I will tell it to you.
Before attaching the stand to the collar, a fold to the width of the allowance is made on the inner part of the stand. The allowance with which the stand is stitched to the neck is folded. It needs to be swept or stitched inside out. We begin to process the stand with the fold already made.
This will allow you to carefully and easily stitch the stand to the neck in the future.

Finishing the shirt sewing

If you have sleeves, then:

Pin and stitch the sleeves, matching the midpoint of the sleeve hem and the shoulder seam.
Sew the side seam and the sleeve seam in the same stitch.

I have a sleeveless shirt and the armholes will be finished with a facing.

If you also sew a sleeveless shirt, then:

Cut out a roll (bias tape) 4 cm wide. Fold it in half, baste it in this way to secure it.

Pin, stitch the rib to the armhole along the face

Turn inside out, baste, stitch carefully along the edge of the roll

Iron

Are your pockets ready yet?

No? Let's get ready.

Overlay the top of the pocket, turn it inside out, and stitch. Fold the remaining sides of the pocket inside out and baste. Pin the finished pockets into place, baste, stitch.

Place the cut out flaps face to face. Pin together, making a slight overlap of the upper part of the valve onto the lower one, so that later you get a nice roll, stitch.

Trim the seam allowances in steps and trim the corners.

Terry's style. Master class on sewing a shirt.

A damn detailed master class on sewing a shirt below the cut.
The lack of systematic knowledge in tailoring prompted me to enroll in cutting and sewing courses, with the goal of someday sewing not just casually, but professionally. And I decided to share the knowledge I had gained, and at the same time consolidate the material in the form of master classes. So, my first post and the first shirt I made myself from scratch.

Materials:
- linen, 1.3 m;
- dublerin 0.2 m;
- thread to match the fabric, two spools;
- pattern;
- tailor's scissors;
- tailor's chalk;
- ruler;
- pins;
- needle and thread for basting;
- sewing machine.

1. Fabric preparation.


1.1. I ironed the fabric; linen requires wet-heat treatment.
1.2. One of the fabric sections was trimmed to a right angle.

2. Cut.

2.1. I pinned the back and fronts to an even cut of the fabric, leaving equal allowances for the hem. This will make it much easier to level the bottom of the product. An elementary thing, right? But I didn’t think of that myself :). We pay attention to the fact that the hem at the bottom should have the same allowance (or at least no less), if it does not lie in line with the back and shelves.
2.2. I pinned the rest of the pattern pieces, not forgetting the seam allowances: sleeves, collar stand, collar, cuffs, pockets (the last four pieces were cut on the bias).


2.3. I outlined the details with chalk and cut them out without removing the pattern.


2.4. According to the marks on the pattern, I used scissors to make notches on the fabric about half the allowance long. The most important mark is the sleeve head (the point at the top of the sleeve that should meet the shoulder seam). Others, such as places in the middle of parts and places of folds, will also not hurt.


2.5. I removed the patterns from the fabric and transferred the outlined dart from one shelf to another. I ignored the darts on the back; they won’t be on the shirt.

3. Sewing.


3.1. I swept the darts starting from the top. I swept the back and shelves along the seams for fitting. I adjusted the fit to the figure, removed the basting everywhere except the darts.


3.2. In my case, the back turned out to be a little wide at the shoulders, I corrected it this way: to the middle of the back, I placed two 1 cm folds from the face. I attached the back pattern and cut the neckline according to it.

YOKE.

3.3. There wasn’t enough fabric for a full yoke, but I really wanted to close the fold. I took the existing symmetrical remainder after cutting and trimmed it along the back.

3.4. I cut out a yoke stencil from thick paper so that along the bottom line it was 0.7 cm smaller. I ironed the seam allowance on the wrong side according to the stencil.


3.5. I basted and stitched the yoke along the bottom line to the back, ironed the fold and the yoke. In general, they teach me to iron each line right away, so the product will look branded, or something. By leaving ironing for later, there is a chance to avoid getting the iron into hard-to-reach places.


3.6. I sewed and ironed the darts.

POCKET.


3.7. I marked the location of the pocket. I ironed the seam allowances around the perimeter using a stencil. I cut off the top part (2.5 cm) from the stencil, folded it and ironed it again. I stitched the top of the pocket, basted it and stitched it to the shelf. I repeated the operation with the second pocket.
3.8. I sewed and finished the shoulder seams.

CHIMPER AND COLLAR.

3.9. I glued the lining with double tape and stitched it to the shelves face to face. I processed the shoulder sections with a zigzag. I folded the outer sections into one layer, stitched them with a knitted stitch or something like that - it’s prettier than a zigzag and doesn’t allow the fabric to unravel. Then I saw on a purchased shirt how to make this place more carefully: before gluing and stitching the edgings to the shelves, sew the outer sections of the edgings with the corresponding sections of the doublerin, the face of the edging to the non-glue side of the doublerin, turn it onto the face, iron the edgings, gluing the doublerin.


3.10. I duplicated one part each of the collar and stand (it’s better to duplicate both stands). I stitched the collar from the inside out on three sides. I cut off the corners and turned them inside out. I basted the collar so that the seam moved slightly to the side of the lower collar (the lower one will be the one that is not glued with dublerin), and ironed the collar.


3.11. I laid a collar between the stand pieces folded face to face, first aligning the middles of the pieces. Stitched, turned, ironed.


3.12. I basted the outer stand face to face to the neck, matching the middle of the neck and stand at the beginning, then the side seams of the stand with the seams of the hems, then placing the neck on the collar. Stitched on the collar.

3.13. I basted the raw section of the edging face to face against the inner post, bending the shoulder section of the edging by 1 cm. I stitched it manually in places that were inconvenient for the machine. Same with the second side.


3.14. I turned the hem inside out, folded it in, and stitched close to the edge the middle part of the inner stand. The shoulder part of the hem was stitched along the shoulder seam. I swept the hems in the same way as the collar, shifting the seam towards the wrong side. I ironed the hems and the stand, gave a machine stitch along the hems, stand and collar

CUFFS AND SLEEVES.


3.15. I cut a strip of fabric on the bias, 3x20 cm, and ironed it in half, inside out. In the back of the sleeve (when folded in half, the back part protrudes) at a distance of 1/3 from the cut, I drew a vertical line of 10 cm. I stitched the strip from the inside with the cuts to the line, and cut along the line.


3.16. I turned the strip onto my face and stitched a stitch along the edge of the strip. The place is difficult for me to stitch smoothly, I didn’t use the machine pedal, I just stupidly turned the moss wheel. I folded the sleeve along the slit face to face, secured the top of the slit with a couple of stitches, and ironed it.


3.17. I duplicated half the cuff. I stitched and processed 10 cm of sleeves from the bottom. I placed folds from the face towards the cut: two on the front (wide) part of the sleeve and one on the back (narrow). The size of the folds is chosen so that after they are laid, the girth of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the length of the cuff without taking into account allowances.


3.18. I basted the face of the cuff (the unglued half) to the inside of the sleeve, leaving 1 cm of space on the cuff from the sleeve cut, and stitched along the cuff. I folded the cuff in half face to face and sewed the vertical sections together. I trimmed the corners, turned the cuff and sleeve inside out. I folded the edge of the cuff and stitched it to the sleeve. I ironed it and made a finishing stitch along the remaining sides of the cuff.

3.19. I placed the sleeve in the armhole. I stitched and finished the sleeve and side seam. I repeated points 3.15 - 3.18 with the second sleeve. Folded the bottom. I processed the loops and sewed on the buttons.


The shirt is ready. Terry Richardson approves)))

A shirt is an indispensable item in every woman’s wardrobe. Depending on the style and material from which the shirt is made, it can be strict, businesslike, creative, elegant...

We will create a pattern - the basis of a women's shirt in a men's style according to individual measurements, on the basis of which you can easily model various styles in the future, and we will construct the button fastening detail in the center of the front. This fastener is found on many shirts.

Measurements

Half neck circumference (Ssh) = 17.3;

Half chest girth second (CrII) = 44;

Half chest girth third (CrIII) = 42;

Half back width (Ws) = 16.8;

Half the width of the first chest (WgI) = 19.1;

Half waist circumference (St) = 31.7;

Half hip circumference (Sb) = 46;

Back length to waist (Dst) = 42.7;

Back length (Ds) = 40;

Front length to waist (Dpt) = 42.6;

Chest height (Вг) = 24.6;

Shoulder height oblique front (Vpkp) = 23.2;

Shoulder height oblique back (Vpx) = 42.3;

Side Height (Sideways) = 22;

Thigh height (Wb) = 20;

Shoulder width (Shpl) = 12

Construction of a basic pattern for a women's shirt in a men's style:

Let's create a pattern for the base of a women's shirt without darts, which is ideal for those with small breasts. For women with large breasts, a breast side dart should be provided on the front pattern. Let's get started:

  1. In the upper left corner, stepping back from the top about 7 cm, we place point A. From point A we draw a vertical line down - this is the line of the middle of the back.
  2. We plot the segments on the vertical: AT = Dc = 40; TB = Wb = 20; TG = Sideways – (1.5÷2) = 20; GP = (2÷3). From points T, B, D, P we draw horizontal lines to the right - these are the lines of the waist, hips, chest, armhole level.
  3. From point A to the right we put AR = Сш/3 + (1÷0.7) = 6.4. From point P up PP1 = Dst – Ds = 2.7. We connect A and P1 with a line, as in the drawing - the line of the back neck.
  4. From point P to the right we set aside PP3 = CgII + 1 + 4 = 49, where 4 is the increase in looseness of fit for shirt-type blouses, at the rate of 2 cm to the side seam of the front and back, so the total increase in chest circumference will be 8 cm. From P3 we draw a vertical line - the line of the middle of the shelf. At its intersection with the horizontal lines we mark points G3, T3, B3.

  1. On the armhole level line we mark PP1 = Shs = 16.8; P3P2 = ШгI = 19.1. We draw the verticals upward. We divide the segment P1P2 in half, mark point P4, and draw a vertical line down.
  2. From point P1 we draw an arc with radius R1Pl = Shpl +1 for dart +1 for lowered sleeve = 14 and an arc with radius Tpl = Vpks = 42.3. The intersection of the arcs is the point Pl - the shoulder point of the back.
  3. We build a shoulder dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades: on P1P we mark P1P2 = 4. From point P2 we put down P2P3 = (8÷9) ; right P2P4 = 1; on P3P4 we put P3P5 = P2P3, connect points P5 and Pl.

  1. On the line of the middle of the shelf we mark T3B = Dpt = 42.6. From point B to the left we put BB1 = AP – 1 = 5.4. From point B down we put BB2 = AP = 6.4. We build an arc B1B2 - the line of the neck of the shelf.
  2. On the line of the middle of the shelf we mark VC = Br = 24.6. From point C to the left we put CC1 = Cg = 9.3.
  3. From point B1 we draw an arc with radius B1Pl1 = Shpl +1 to the lowered sleeve = 13 and an arc with radius Ts1Pl1 = Vpkp = 23.2. The intersection of the arcs is point Pl1 – the shoulder point of the shelf. Connect points B1 and Pl1.

  1. From P1 upward we set aside 7 cm. ACCORDING TO THE PATTERN, you can use it, we build a back armhole line Pl-7-P4, as shown in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the shoulder line of the backrest. Point 7 is a guideline; if it is not possible to draw a pattern line through it without a break, then draw it nearby. We set aside 5 cm from P2 upwards. We build a shelf armhole line Pl1-5-P4, as in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the shoulder line of the shelf and more “curved” towards point P4 than the back armhole line. This is necessary for freedom of movement of the arms in the horizontal plane. Point 5 is also a guideline; if you cannot draw a pattern line through it without a break, then retreat.
  2. Check the width of the shirt at the hips. BB3 = 49. Sb = 46. Thus, the increase in hip circumference will be (49-46) * 2 = 6. For a basic pattern, such an increase in freedom of fit along the hips is enough for me. If you get a smaller value, then you need to add the necessary centimeters along the hip line and adjust the side lines.

The base of the shirt bodice has been built (Drawing 5), on its basis you can easily model various styles and introduce constructive and decorative elements.

In the models of many shirts there is a button closure in the center of the front, let's look at its modeling.

Modeling a button fastener:

A button fastener, as in the photo, consists of two one-piece (cut out in one piece with a shelf) strips, on one of which (for women's shirts, the left one, if the shirt is worn by a person) buttons are sewn, and on the other (right, respectively) loops are punched.

The pattern of a strip 3 cm wide, in this case the distance from the middle of the shelf (button line) to the edge will be 1.5 cm, is constructed as follows:

  1. We build an approach to the fastener: stepping back 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the shelf to the right, we draw a parallel vertical line - this is the line of the edge of the fastener. It is very important to correctly design the neck line so that the finished buttoned collar looks perfect. To do this, arc B2B4 must be a mirror twin of arc B2B3.
  2. We create a hem inward: stepping back 3 cm from the line of the edge of the fastener to the right, draw a parallel line. And here it is important to design the neck line. Arc B4B5 must be the mirror twin of arc B3B4.
  3. The bottom line of the bar is also a mirror twin of the corresponding section of the bottom line of the shelf. In this case, it is a straight line perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

You now have a basic pattern for a men's style sleeveless women's shirt with a crew neck and button closure. How to create a shirt sleeve pattern, in the article.

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