Yves Saint Laurent icon. Brand history: Saint Laurent Paris (Yves Saint Laurent). New ideas in fashion
A-line dress, women's tuxedo and the scent of the legendary Opium. Unisex and luxury. “My dresses are designed for women who can afford to travel with forty suitcases.” What else do we know about the legendary couturier and his brainchild, the Saint Laurent fashion house?
Yves Saint Laurent was born in Algeria into a family of wealthy French aristocrats. His ambitious mother predicted a bright future for him in art. Thanks to her, the young man ended up in Paris, and his sketches were appreciated by the editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine. So in 1957, Saint Laurent became a student at the haute couture school. 18-year-old Saint Laurent was lucky enough to get an internship with the legendary Christian Dior. The young man idolized the master. “At first I couldn’t even talk in his presence. He taught me the basics of this art. And no matter what later happened in my life, I always remembered the years spent next to Dior,” Saint Laurent said later.
After Dior's death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent took over the leadership of the legendary fashion house. It was under his leadership that in 1959 the model Christian Dior went to the USSR. The whole world started talking about the young couturier, and the trapezoid silhouette he created, inspired by Russian sundresses, became a symbol of the 60s.
Yves Saint Laurent at the very beginning of his career
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In 1960, Yves Saint Laurent was called up for military service: Algeria declared a fight for independence from France. The young fashion designer spent 20 days in the war, and then was hospitalized with a severe nervous breakdown. He was treated with electric shock. The new management of the house of Dior unilaterally terminated the contract with Saint Laurent. Which subsequently resulted in a lawsuit for illegal dismissal.
One way or another, having sued the house of Dior for $24 thousand, Saint Laurent, together with his friend Pierre Berger, creates his own fashion house. The opening took place in December 1961. “I moved from the world of fabrics and proportions to the world of silhouettes and lines,” said the couturier. At that time he was 21 years old.
In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent created the famous Mondrian collection. A-line dresses feature geometric prints and fragments of paintings by the famous abstract artist Piet Mondrian.
In addition to two collections haute couture Since 1966, the fashion house also began producing two Rive Gauche ready-to-wear collections. Thus began the democratic fashion of ready-to-wear dresses. Inspired by the trend towards unisex and androgyny, Yves Saint Laurent designed women's collection V men's style, created the first tuxedo for women and the iconic safari jacket. Saint Laurent was the first designer to use African and Asian models in his catwalk shows.
“Everyone thinks about the transience of fashion, but Yves Saint Laurent thinks about modern clothes for a woman of the second half of the twentieth century,” noted the great Coco Chanel
Yves Saint Laurent also created costumes and sets for plays, films and shows. For example, for Catherine Deneuve in Luis Buñuel’s film “Beauty of the Day”. For this work, the couturier was awarded an Oscar, and Deneuve remained Saint Laurent's muse until the end of his days.
Catherine Deneuve (pictured far left) was Saint Laurent's (pictured center) muse until the end of his days
Photo Gettyimages.com
Since the late 80s, a crisis began at YSL. To improve matters, Pierre Berger began actively selling licenses to use the YSL brand. This led to the fact that the position of the fashion house lost its exclusivity, the products were replicated, but the company's losses continued to grow.
In 1998, Saint Laurent abandoned the Rive Gauche line, hiring Alber Elbaz for the women's collection and Hedi Slimane for the men's collection.
In 1999, the YSL house was acquired by the Gucci group, which invited Tom Ford, who was distinguished by his pressure and some aggression, to create ready-to-wear collections. An agreement was concluded between Ford and Saint Laurent on non-interference in each other's affairs, but the alliance did not work out. In January 2001, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé pointedly ignored the show of the first ready-to-wear collection created by Tom Ford for YSL. Moreover, the next day they attended Hedi Slimane's show for Christian Dior.
In recent interviews, the great Yves Saint Laurent said that he felt deceived and disappointed.
“Today I have decided to say goodbye to the world of fashion, which I loved so much,” said 65-year-old Yves Saint Laurent on January 7, 2002.
The master presented his latest collection and closed his haute couture line. In 2008, the founder of the house Saint Laurent died.
After Tom Ford left in 2004, Stefano Pilati took over the ready-to-wear line. His style was more French than Ford's overt images.
Couturier Yves Henri Don Mathieu Saint Laurent, known to us as Yves Saint Laurent, is called a revolutionary in the fashion industry, the little prince of haute couture and an eternal classic. noted that Saint Laurent was the first among his colleagues to raise fashion to the level of art.
The couturier's friend and colleague, Pierre Berger, drew a line under the creative biography of Yves Saint Laurent, noting that the fashion of the first half of the twentieth century was influenced by, and the second half by Saint Laurent. He gave humanity a unisex style, dressing women in tuxedos, high boots, transparent blouses and A-line dresses. He was also the first to invite models with dark skin to the catwalk.
Childhood and youth
Future "architect" fashionable clothes born in Oran, Algeria, in the summer of 1936. The star's father worked as an insurance agent, and his mother became Yves' first muse, inspiring him to create sketches of dresses. Her son and two daughters were waiting for her evening appearance like a theatrical performance. Yves Saint Laurent began drawing sketches of clothes at the age of 8, and at 11 he became interested in the theater stage. So much so that he soon built decorations for the house, dressing dolls in outfits glued together from painted scraps.
There was no fear of elders in the house; Yves’ “performances” were watched with pleasure by his mother, sisters and cousins. An indelible impression on the young couturier was made by the performance of the great Louis Jouvet “The School for Wives”, the scenery and costumes for which were created by the French artist Christian Berard.
Later, Saint Laurent admitted that, having seen the clothes of theater actors from Bérard, he realized that the main thing in a suit is the soul, and in a dress - the woman. In Algeria, Yves Saint Laurent graduated from college and lyceum, focusing on his favorite subjects - French and Latin. Andre Gide was one of the writers who influenced his worldview, and among the artists he adored Matisse.
Design and fashion
At the age of 17, the young man arrived in the “capital of fashion” and enrolled in a “couture” drawing course. The first success came the same year: a black cocktail dress, the sketch of which was created by Yves Saint Laurent, took first place in the competition. Two years later, in 1955, the 19-year-old boy was hired as an assistant at home. In 1957, the head of the fashion house died. In two years collaboration Dior recognized talent in the young assistant, so the brand owners relied on Yves Saint Laurent, entrusting the 21-year-old couturier with the position of art director.
At the beginning of 1958, the designer presented to the fans of the fashion house his debut collection, for which Yves Saint Laurent was inspired by Russian sundresses. No one expected such a furore: Yves was expected to continue the Dior line of curvy, fitted silhouettes. And the newcomer presented a completely new look - the A-silhouette. Short trapezoidal dresses made of flowing fabrics and silk were “liberating” female body and did not place the usual emphasis on the waist. The day after the presentation, the Paris tabloids wrote that Yves Saint Laurent “saved France” with his sundresses.
In the summer of 1959, the designer went to Moscow in the company of twelve models, becoming a pioneer of the French fashion industry in the Soviet Union. The following year, the young master was drafted into army service and sent to Africa. Yves Saint Laurent could not stand the test of military drill: 20 days later he was demobilized after a nervous breakdown and hospitalized. Young man He was treated with electric shock and “harsh” medications, after which he lost weight to 35 kilograms.
Yves Saint Laurent and models wearing clothes from the “Beatnik” collection Returning to the fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent came up with a new spring-summer collection, “Beatnik,” which he presented in 1960. Cropped motorcycle jackets made of crocodile skin and mink coats with knitted sleeves scared conservative investors at home: the collection seemed too avant-garde and luxurious. Saint Laurent was fired, replacing the extreme couturier with the predictable Mark Bohan. Friend Pierre Berger supported the fired designer. He helped cope with the blow and emerge victorious: Yves Saint Laurent won monetary compensation in court for illegal termination of the contract.
Fashion house YSL
Having found a new investor - American entrepreneur Mark Robinson - Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berger established their own fashion house with the YSL logo. Before the presentation of the collection at the end of January 1962, Parisians whispered about the impending failure, believing that the designer did not have the money to realize his plans. But the ill-wishers were put to shame: the new line of clothing with silhouettes that responded to the spirit of the times was applauded by Baroness de Rothschild.
Yves Saint Laurent logo In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent presented the world with the revolutionary Mondrian collection, declaring that he was tired of dressing up the wives of millionaires. A-line outfits with geometric patterns by the Dutch artist Piet Mondrian surprised the fashion world. In the collection, the designer used works by modernists and Serge Polyakov. The design of collectible dresses is not a print, but sewn colored pieces of fabric. The concept was picked up by Saint Laurent's colleagues, making their own interpretations, but Yves Saint Laurent was at the origins of the idea.
Yves Saint Laurent "Mondrian" Collection In 1966, YSL celebrated the opening of its first ready-to-wear boutique, named after the Rive Gauche (the left bank of the Seine, home to freethinkers, students and revolutionaries). The name was dictated by the revolutionary changes that Yves Saint Laurent introduced into the fashion industry: the couturier dressed women in men's suits that looked sexy and elegant.
A year later, the “Tuxedo” collection was shown, with which Yves Saint Laurent “finished off” the remnants of patriarchal fashion. “Men’s” items appeared in the women’s wardrobe – tuxedos, trouser suits, Safari-style jackets, overalls and peacoats. But these models, while borrowing “masculine” silhouettes, did not deprive women of sexuality.
Marlene Dietrich demonstrates Yves Saint Laurent's "Tuxedo" collection The 1971 Libération collection became the most provocative, bringing a barrage of criticism to the author’s head. The master's costume line was inspired by Paloma Picasso. The woman, who had a delicate taste and was not afraid to experiment, bought a 1940s suit at a flea market that amazed Yves Saint Laurent. Women took part in the fashion show in clothes reminiscent of the Second World War.
Another muse that inspired Saint Laurent’s “Liberation” collection was the famous provocateur and trampler of foundations. Older fashionistas were indignant: they remembered the years of Nazi occupation. Black tights, platform shoes and bright makeup inspired fashion critics with analogies with women of easy virtue from the Bois de Boulogne. But the barrage of criticism was unexpectedly replaced by a boom in women’s “men’s” suits from YSL: Yves Saint Laurent again foresaw the trends, being two steps ahead.
Fashion editor Diana Vreeland said that the couturier “has a special magic pipe for women,” and no matter what the maestro does, fashionistas of all ages will follow him. In 1976, Yves Saint Laurent presented fashionistas thirsty for new items with the collection “Russian Ballets and Operas,” which was inspired by Russian theater, ballet and national motifs. Beauties paraded on the catwalk in colorful “peasant” dresses with embroidery and gold embroidery.
Dresses "Yves Saint Laurent" The year 1990 was marked by a tribute collection, which the master, anticipating quick departure, dedicated to loved ones - actors, dancers, artists. Yves Saint Laurent said goodbye to fans and the fashion world in January 2002. The show of the latest collection took place at the Center Georges Pompidou. Farewell to the maestro, who delighted and dictated fashion for 40 years, was national event.
Cosmetics and perfume are another chapter of Saint Laurent’s vibrant creativity. In 1971, the star of the global fashion industry gave men's fragrance"Opium". The advertisement turned out to be as provocative as the fragrance itself: Yves Saint Laurent stripped naked to present the perfume. Subsequently, Opium eau de toilette and eau de parfum was advertised by Rupert Everett and naked couturier Sophie Dahl, who followed suit.
Personal life
Pierre Berger was a friend, colleague and lover of Yves Saint Laurent. In the mid-1970s, the romance ended, but the friendship and business partnership remained. Shortly before the death of the master, the couple concluded civil marriage.
Yves Saint Laurent was in love with Karl Lagerfeld's partner Jacques de Bascher. The young man came from an educated family and was distinguished attractive appearance and love for social parties. Jacques was in a relationship with Lagerfeld for about 12 years, but then left for Saint Laurent. 6 years later, Jacques de Bascher dies due to AIDS.
Yves Saint Laurent's unconventional orientation did not become an obstacle to his love for women: borrowing men's suits and frock coats and unisex style were not a desire to turn a woman into a man. Trousers and leather jackets from Saint Laurent “breathe” sexuality, jackets and safari suits are surprisingly feminine and emphasize the shape.
Women of Yves Saint Laurent are called Paloma Picasso, fashion models Veruschka (Vera von Lehndorff) and Loulou de la Falaise.
Death
The maestro spent the last six years of his life in an ultramarine mansion in Marrakech. Yves Saint Laurent retired in the late 1980s due to health problems: the couturier abused alcohol and drugs and underwent treatment several times. In 1992, Berger announced the departure of Yves Saint Laurent and the “end of haute couture,” but his final retirement occurred 10 years later. Financial problems fell on the YSL house. Couturier died Sunday evening in the early summer of 2008 in Paris, which has seen its ups and downs. The cause of Yves Saint Laurent's death was a brain tumor.
Farewell to the world fashion trendsetter took place in the Parisian Church of Saint-Roch. The ashes of Yves Saint Laurent were scattered over his beloved garden at the Villa Majorelle in Marrakech, where he loved to sit in the evenings in the company of a bulldog named Man III (the same nicknames were given to two previous dogs). Two films have been made about the work of the “eternal fashion classic”: “Yves Saint Laurent” by Jalil Lespert and “Saint Laurent. Style is me" by Bertrand Bonello. Both films were released in 2014.
State of the house today
In 1999, the house of Yves Saint Laurent was acquired by the Italian fashion house Gucci, which entrusted it with developing collections. Couturier worked on creating a new line until 2004; after his departure, the baton passed to Stefano Pilati. From 2011 to 2013, Belgian Paul Deneuve became the executive director of the Yves Saint Laurent Paris fashion house. During his leadership in the winter of 2012 creative director Hedi Slimane has been appointed. In the summer of the same year, Slimane renamed the line Saint Laurent Paris.
Perfume "Yves Saint Laurent" In 2012, YSL perfumers created a perfume for the brave and liberated woman “Manifesto”. Connoisseurs called the perfume a “manifesto of femininity”: it “opens” with notes of greenery; in its “heart” lies a floral symphony, which ends with woody “chords”.
Bags "Yves Saint Laurent" In 2016, Slimane was replaced by designer Anthony Vaccarello. In 2017, Vaccarello merged the shows of the women's and men's collections for the autumn-winter season. IN new collection the designer presented provocative short skirts, vinyl trousers, corsets and high-top boots, once borrowed by Yves Saint Laurent. Vaccarello's boot turned into an accordion. New items from the fashion house can be purchased on the official website. Prices for models of clothing, bags and shoes range from exorbitant to affordable.
Quotes
- “Over the years, I realized that the most important thing about a dress is the woman who wears it.”
- “In this life, I regret only one thing - that I didn’t invent jeans.”
- “Clothing should be subordinated to the woman’s personality, and not vice versa.”
- "Love - best cosmetics. But it’s easier to buy cosmetics.”
- “My dresses are designed for women who can afford to travel with forty suitcases.”
- “One fine day they announced on the radio that I had died. Crowds of journalists rushed towards me. I had to say that it was all a lie: here I am, alive and almost healthy. But for some reason they didn’t want to believe me at all, although they saw me with their own eyes.”
- "The most best clothes for a woman it is the embrace of a man who loves her. But for those who are deprived of such happiness, there is me.”
- “Fashion passes, style is eternal.”
Yves Saint Laurent, born on August 1, 1936 in Algeria, was supposed to practice law, but thanks to the support of his mother, in 1954 he went to Paris, to school at the Syndicate of Haute Couture.
Almost immediately after admission, he presented a cocktail dress at one of the competitions for aspiring designers. Yves Saint Laurent shared his first victory with Karl Lagerfeld - they were the ones who got the prize.
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Saint Laurent's talent was noticed, and a year later he became Christian Dior's assistant and at the same time an apprentice tailor at the house of Christian Dior.
What followed was a rapid career - Yves Saint Laurent, who took the place of art director of the House after the death of Christian Dior, presented his first collection, for which he received the prestigious Neiman Marcus Oscar. It was in this collection that trapeze dresses could be seen for the first time - one of the first innovations of Yves Saint Laurent.
The morning after the show, the newspapers were full of headlines: “Yves Saint Laurent saved France, the Dior tradition will be continued!”
In 1960, Yves Saint Laurent was drafted into the army. But the hardships of military service resulted in the psychiatric ward of a military hospital, where he was treated with shock therapy and tranquilizers.
Yves could not speak and weighed only 40 kg when Pierre Berger appeared in his life. He became for Saint Laurent not only a lover, but also true friend and an assistant in business. It was he who ensured that his ward was released from the army, and helped the young designer found his own fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent, in January 1962.
Four years later, the designer introduced the world to Le Smoking, a women's version of the tailcoat suit. The tuxedo not only instantly won the hearts of women, but also completely revolutionized the fashion of that time.
Yves Saint Laurent began to actively introduce the trouser suit into the lives of women. In the same year, the designer opened his first boutique, Rive Gauche, named after what was then considered a haven of anarchists on the left bank of the Seine, making another revolution - the store sold casual wear, in no way inferior to the evening one.
Thus, Yves Saint Laurent democratized haute couture.
At the same time, androgynous models appeared at Saint Laurent’s shows and photo shoots – the kind we see on the catwalks now.
Skinny girls with combed back hair demonstrated feminine power and opportunities. Supported the trend Karl Lagerfeld, and Helmut Newton sang them in his numerous photographs, which later also turned into classics.
By 1970, Saint Laurent was also credited with inventing the peacoat (1962), sheer blouses (1966) and overalls (1968).
The designer loved to use transparent materials, for which he was repeatedly attacked. The invention of the pea coat became a unique symbol of the House of Yves Saint Laurent, reflecting the master’s ability to mix high fashion, art and everyday things, turning them into a legend.
Among Saint Laurent's countless inventions is the safari-inspired jacket, which became a sensation. His African (1967) and Russian (1976) collections are still considered one of the most important in the history of fashion and one of the best in the designer’s work.
It was Yves Saint Laurent who introduced the fashion for stunning evening dresses, experimenting with them, but never forgetting about femininity and grace. Special attention deserve Wedding Dresses YSl.
In January 2002, Yves Saint Laurent retired due to numerous health problems. A few months earlier, he had broken both arms during a trip to Palermo and lost the main pleasure of his life - the opportunity to draw.
Subsequently, the designer’s health deteriorated, and he practically stopped attending social events.
In the last minutes of Sunday morning, his friends were with him - Pierre Berger, muse Betty Catroux and Philippe Mougnier, who had been taking care of Saint Laurent's health lately. Catherine Deneuve arrived minutes after his death on June 1, 2008.
In memory of the great couturier, at the Sundance Film Festival, which takes place annually in winter at the famous American ski resort of Aspen, two films were shown at once in 2009 - the work of the French cinematographer David Teboul entitled Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times and painting by Yves Saint Laurent: 5 Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris.
Both films are dedicated to the life and work of the legendary designer.
“Never confuse elegance with snobbery,” said the great master of fashion, Yves Saint Laurent. He gave the world new woman, free from prejudice, independent and sexy, knowing exactly what she wants, stylish and self-confident. And also passionately wanting love. He will often talk about love, how it makes a woman beautiful, how a woman absolutely needs to love... Women inspired him. Women were his muses.
“Over the years, I realized that the most important thing in a dress is the woman who wears it,” another famous statement by Saint Laurent. And when they tell me that fashion depersonalizes women, I remember another quote from a genius: “Clothing should be subordinated to a woman’s personality, and not vice versa.” Only the woman herself can depersonalize herself. And, unfortunately, not everyone understands this simple truth. As for the fashion heritage of Yves Saint Laurent, it is so great and significant that you can discover it again and again, and each time new details of the great master’s style, new facets of his talent will appear.
Women's tuxedo
If Coco Chanel stuck her curious nose into the men's wardrobe in order to draw a lot of ideas from there, nevertheless offering women mostly laconic dresses and skirts of elegant length, then Yves Saint Laurent gave women the freedom and power with which he associated the men's suit . Since he aestheticized the tuxedo to fit a woman’s body in 1966, this item of women’s wardrobe has rightfully become a fashion classic. Perhaps only a lazy designer does not offer his own variations on the tuxedo theme from season to season. What can we say about other men's suits, forever included in women's wardrobe and adapted for all occasions.
If during the youth of Yves Saint Laurent, his famous fashion models were not allowed into the restaurant in a trouser suit, considering that appearance a challenge and a deviation from the norm, today a well-fitting tuxedo is often an unofficial pass to events of various kinds and dress codes. Less known, but no less stylish gift for women from the master - a tuxedo dress. Perfectly suitable for any living situation, it can also be used as a light coat.
Transparent blouse
“I found my style thanks to a woman. It is from there that all the strength and vitality of my style comes - I draw them from a woman’s body,” said the great couturier. In the 60s, it was the female body in the collections of the young designer Saint Laurent that caused a real scandal. Yves offered women a completely transparent blouse, which should be worn without underwear. Of course, this invention plunged the “decent ladies” into a deep shock. But the atmosphere of rebellion that reigned in the minds of that time undoubtedly played into the hands of the sensitive couturier, instantly making the transparent blouse a cult item. The most daring fans of the brand immediately took Saint Laurent’s advice and began to combine this item with a tuxedo, which was no less revolutionary at that time.
It is curious that now few fashion designers will deny themselves the pleasure of making at least one transparent item in each of their collections.
Pea coat
Thanks to genius, the short double-breasted coat has evolved from the uniform of military sailors into the must-have of the modern men's wardrobe. Saint Laurent himself wore a pea coat and easily shared it with women. A stylish coat never goes out of fashion, but in the current autumn-winter season, a peacoat is a highly relevant and desirable item for the most fashionable and stylish women.
Safari
Africa has been a source of inspiration for Saint Laurent more than once. Hailing from Algeria, in the northern part of the country, he has made luxury leisurewear a classic in the stylish summer wardrobe. The legendary Safari jacket, jackets, shirts, overalls and dresses in sand color and all shades of khaki are another bright characteristic style of the great master of fashion. This includes the famous leopard print. The king of fashion made it a symbol of luxury and grace. And also the turban, a characteristic headdress for North Africa, began to sound secularly elegant in the hands of Saint Laurent.
Dress "Mondrian"
The 1965 collection based on the paintings of the Dutch abstract artist Piet Mondrian has forever entered the golden fund of fashion history. Six A-line dresses (the same silhouette that Yves introduced into fashion while still serving as Christian Dior's successor) became a symbol of the new era. And the dresses themselves are still kept in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (the world's largest museum of decorative arts and design). By the way, the famous Mondrian pattern is not a print, but pieces of multi-colored fabric sewn together. Matisse, Manet, Velazquez - fashion designer often looks for inspiration in art and creates it himself.
Color
A lot has already been said about color, however, speaking about the fashion heritage of Yves Saint Laurent, it is impossible not to mention it as a separate item. The king of fashion loved the color black: “In order to be beautiful, a woman only needs to have a black sweater, a black skirt and walk arm in arm with the man she loves.” It’s hard to disagree with this: a woman in love will look good even in a potato sack. And Saint Laurent noted this more than once.
For everyone else, he suggested color. Lots of color. In addition to popularizing the color khaki, he introduced into fashion bright colors, the most unexpected combinations and color blocks at first glance. Red with pink, purple with lilac and blue, fuchsia with black. Color from Yves Saint Laurent is always more than fashion. This is a work of art.
Russian theme and ethnicity
Saint Laurent is not the only artist who expressed his admiration for Russian style and used folklore motifs in his collections. However, he did it unforgettably. The master was the first to offer the viewer a fashion show as a performance, as a sacrament, as an initiation into the world of color, the richness of Russian textures, into the world of couture. This is exactly what the Russian Ballet and Opera collection of 1976 became. Yves Saint-Coran was a passionate admirer of the theater and worked a lot for it, creating costumes for legendary ballets and operas. He himself did not consider the Russian collection the best, but he called it the most beautiful. The Russian theme from the master gave the fashion world bright pure colors such as red, green, rich purple, and bouffant skirts floor-length, suede vests trimmed with fur, fur in general, including colored ones. He elegantly painted a men's blazer in green, combining it with red and gold buttons. Yves stylized japanese kimono and Indian sari from national clothes in European chic style modern woman, free from snobbery and prejudice.
The beginnings of street fashion and sporty chic
It’s hard to imagine, but it’s true: at the age of 21, the shy young man Yves Saint Laurent turned in an instant from Christian Dior’s assistant to the artistic director of the legendary Dior fashion house. This was back in 1957. Already in the first collection he will show all the best of the traditions of the house, adding his unique look. He will become the first fashion designer to visit Moscow in 1959 with a collection outerwear. However, the most revolutionary would be the 1960 Beatnik collection. Then she turned out to be misunderstood by critics; their consciousness at that moment was not ready to accept elements of street style on the high fashion catwalk. Sable coats with knitted sleeves, over the knee boots, caps, and crocodile leather biker jackets became shock therapy for the patriarchal clients of Christian Dior. The beatniks or “broken generation” were one of the most fashionable and dangerous phenomena of that time.
The film “The Savage” with Marlon Brando, which was a huge success, brought into fashion a new aesthetic and new heroes of its time. Brutal guys in biker jackets and biker jackets, rough boots and jeans with cuffs that look exactly like hipsters wore boyfriend jeans just a few seasons ago. However, the women in the cult film are still far from the women of Yves Saint Laurent. Hair pulled back, styled in soft curls, the delicate silhouette of the new look is still relevant, but is already becoming the image of a woman of the past. Because the woman of the future, the woman of Yves Saint Laurent - dynamic, free, independent and at the same time luxurious, clearly declared herself in the art of haute couture.
Elena Mareeva, TV producer, expert in the field of fashion and style, www.mareevastyle.com
Founder of the Elena Mareeva School of Style, successful blogger, stylist, expert in the field of personal style, self-presentation, impression management, social and business communication, men's suit, fashion trends. 15 years of work on TV. For the last 8 years she has devoted herself to talk shows. Fashionable verdict" As the creative producer of the project, she was responsible for the program, its quality, concept, ratings, innovations, image and transformation of the characters.
